12 Dec2008

ensim1

My personal search for a more old-fashioned style ensaimada as opposed to the lighter, cakey, sweet mall versions topped with sanded cheese is a long-running one. I have written about ensaimadas for at least 3-4 years and I am always thrilled to find more artisanal style versions for sale, more often than not, home-cooked with an abundance of ingredients of the finest quality and baked by a kindred soul… someone who bakes to please themselves or close family and friends. In the past month alone, I have received and tasted two such ensaimadas and I am really encouraged by this apparent “resurgence” of interest in the “older” version of the delicacy. First off, the ensaimadas of Des Rodriguez-Torres. I wrote about ensaimadas three years ago, and at the time, could NOT identify the source of a very good ensaimada that our landlord used to send us for Christmas. It arrived wrapped in wax paper in a specific way and placed in a nondescript white box. I think now it was sourced from the the kitchens of Des or her near relatives…

ensim2

A little more bready than cakey, Des’ ensaimadas have a light topping of butter and grated queso de bola. It is rich but not excessively so, and sweet but not overly sweet. This is similar in style to the Medina ensaimada with ONE HUGE difference… I don’t think this one has queso de bola worked into the dough, so it isn’t as salty and oily as the Medina one. You can get these ensaimadas at “Pamangan” the stall of Des at the Saturday Salcedo market where she features not only this family recipe, but other Capampangan Family Recipes & More. Now I have two sources of an older style ensaimada at Salcedo market (Marc’s and Des’) in case I am too lazy to make my own. Thank you Des for making this available for all to enjoy! Pamangan/Des Rodriguez-Torres 0917-5399861 or destorres@gmail.com

ensim3

A week later, I was the recipient of this box of incredible goodies, three types of ensaimadas, from Artisan Chocolatier, while on a business trip to Cebu. I don’t think he sells these commercially, but he texted me to say he was trying out an old family recipe so of course I agreed to taste test. The first thing that struck me about these ensaimadas was the size and shape of the large central piece in the photos. This is a coiled piece, baked flat on a sheet pan, and this represents a style more reminiscent of the 1950’s and 1960’s ensaimadas in Cebu and elsewhere in the archipelago. Actually, it is closer to the shape of a classic Mallorcan ensaimada as well. Artisan’s version is notably more Cebuano in the sense that it is less rich, more breadlike and doesn’t have much “toppings” on it in the sense of cheese or butter or sugar. The Visayan aesthetic of “less is more” clearly shines through in a nice way with this version. Not sure who moved the ensaimada to the “truly over-the-top coated in cheese, butter and sugar version”, but these ones were truer to a less flashy era… These would be brilliant with some good butter and homemade jam.

ensim4

Artisan also sent smaller bun like versions and one that I believe had chocolate worked into the dough that was interesting as well. A huge thank you to Artisan for letting me taste these, and I hope that more folks will get curious and seek out the older fashioned ensaimadas, if only to understand the ancestors or predecessors to the versions more commonly available today… Suki, Cebu Veterans Drive, Nivel Hills, Apas (drive towards and past Marco Polo Hotel from Lahug, Suki is about 300-400 meters beyond the hotel).

 

COMMENTS:

  1. A scientist in the kitchen says:

    Come to think, I took ensaymadas for granted and got used to the Goldilocks or mall versions you could buy. When I saw that picture of ensaymadas from Artisan, I recalling ensaymadas such as those down South, in Iligan and in some small-town bakeries down there. Will be on the look out for such next time I travel to Mindanao.

    Btw, MM, I made bacon over the weekend and tested one chunk this morning. Bacon nga! I cure a kilo of liempo and cut it into 3 chunks. The last 2 chunks I will smoke tomorrow. Yay, can’t wait for the weekend to be over!

    Dec 12, 2008 | 2:38 pm

     
  2. moni says:

    MM, thanks for the tip. I am also an ensaimada lover and I will look for the Des ensaimada at Salcedo market on my next trip to Manila. Artisan Chocolatier, is your ensaimada available in your shop near Marco Polo? It will be a great excuse for me to take the Weesam from Ormoc to Cebu in the morning and return right after a visit to your shop.

    Dec 12, 2008 | 2:43 pm

     
  3. cumin says:

    Aaaah, so much food and only one stomach! These ensaimadas would be lovely with a cup of Earl Grey tea… Will try to go to Salcedo market tomorrow. But if the weather persuades me to stay in bed, I’ll go to BDO instead. Happy weekend, MM!

    Dec 12, 2008 | 3:19 pm

     
  4. marc medina says:

    the rodriguez version is one of my favorites, and not because i love des dearly or that her dad and my dad were friends (pampanga old boys network).

    you can actually get them in different sizes, and you don’t have to get the BIG ones. may medium size ata para sa mga taong gustong mamatay sa kolesterol BUKAS imbes na NGAYON, gets? pwedeng i-order to sa tia ni des sa san fernando.

    ang mga de leon sa bacolor meron din silang version pero ewan kung gumagawa pa sila kasi nalubog ang buong bacolor sa lahar pati na rin ata yung recipe ng ensaimada natabunan ng lahar.

    Dec 12, 2008 | 6:36 pm

     
  5. marc medina says:

    di na tayo talagang nagsawa sa ensaimada no…?

    Dec 12, 2008 | 6:37 pm

     
  6. myra_p says:

    Marc, when you get back, I’d love to hear you talk like you write, but with your new accent. Bought your giant ensaymada the other week, hinayupak talaga.

    Dec 12, 2008 | 7:37 pm

     
  7. sister says:

    That middle ensaimada is right on the money-that’s how it looked in the fifties and that’s still how I make them for myself, double braided and flat on a cookie sheet.

    Dec 12, 2008 | 8:01 pm

     
  8. GJN says:

    MM, does the Des Rodriguez-Torres recipe come from Apung Batik (Beatriz Rodriguez)of Bacolor? BTW, can anyone tell me what’s the best way to bring/send ensaimada to the US? My American brother-in-law has been nagging me to send him some.

    Dec 12, 2008 | 9:05 pm

     
  9. marc medina says:

    des is the niece of imang beatriz. gumagawa din sila dati ng hinyupak na saniculas cookies at dulce prenda.

    Dec 12, 2008 | 9:31 pm

     
  10. Maki says:

    i like ensaimada’s with fillings… ^___^

    Dec 12, 2008 | 9:32 pm

     
  11. marc medina says:

    teka muna, ba’t ba akong sumasagot ha? aling myra pakisabi nga kay des mag-computer siya pa-minsan minsan…

    Dec 12, 2008 | 9:33 pm

     
  12. GJN says:

    Apung Batik also made the best tocino del cielo!!!

    Dec 12, 2008 | 9:51 pm

     
  13. marc medina says:

    mas rich yung galing sa isang pinsan ni des si mitzi hizon. pero the tocinos des makes is exactly the same as ‘mang beatriz. hizon naman ata lahat ng mga yan eh. tocinos another one of those pampanga recipes na lahat ata ng buong pampanga may version niyan…!

    Dec 12, 2008 | 10:05 pm

     
  14. millet says:

    marc, what is dulce prenda, and how did it get its name? how could anyything prenda’d be sweet at all?

    Dec 12, 2008 | 10:43 pm

     
  15. chrisb says:

    The crumb of the ensaimada up top looks great, MM. Definitely bready. How was the flavor? I just realized what is missing in most commercial ensaimadas today: a well developed yeast flavor.

    Dec 12, 2008 | 11:11 pm

     
  16. marissewalangkaparis says:

    I love this sequence of posts Marc et al….hahahaha…Marc,you’re really hinayupak funny….will go to Salcedo tomorrow if just to get some ensaimadas….hahaha…from des and yours..

    Dec 12, 2008 | 11:12 pm

     
  17. maria says:

    yummmy! i also miss seattle’s best ensaimada. hu hu hu i miss holidays in pinas

    Dec 12, 2008 | 11:40 pm

     
  18. myra_p says:

    Mang marc,

    I will look for des tomorrow, if only to eat her ensaymada and compare to yours. Btw, Everybody’s Cafe is behind me, so I’ve been snacking on samples of your famous kapampangan dishes, ie, crickets, stuffed frogs and other gastronomic delights.

    Aling myra.

    Dec 12, 2008 | 11:49 pm

     
  19. Good Life says:

    Marc you are funny. Love reading your responses.
    By the way those ensaymada looks good. Easy on your carbs ladies.

    Dec 13, 2008 | 12:53 am

     
  20. marc medina says:

    mahal kong aling myra,

    huwag po nating ihambing ang dalawang hinayupak na kapampangang ensaimada, dahil eka nga que recipe pa yan ni jose rizal nakakataba pa rin yang dalawang yan at nakakataas ng lintik na kolesterol.

    samakatwid, mas matapang po ang lasa ng mga taga arayat dahil kami po ay taga-bundok at sila pong mga angkan ni nanay des ay galing pong syudad (teka. ganyan ba spelling nyan?). sila po ay sosyal at kami po’y mga hinayupak na mga taga bundok na walang magawa kundi magkalmot ng bay….WANG (anong akala niyo ha?).

    ang dulce prenda po ay dalawang saniculas na ginawang sandwich na ang palaman ay minatamis na kundol. hinayupak di po siya. at nakakataba rin po siya. ang gumagawa po nun ay si imang lillian borromeo ng mexico, pampanga. sina nanay des po dati gumagawa pero linahar ang bahay nila sa bacolor…ganun din ang recipe ng original dulce prenda.

    meron pa pong dulce prenda sa bacolor pero hindi po masarap.

    ang inyong lingkod,
    mang marc

    Dec 13, 2008 | 1:06 am

     
  21. Artisan Chocolatier says:

    Hi MM…I’m still working on getting the family’s ensaimada to how I remember them as a kid. The Christmas season is perfect, as I gift my aunts and uncles with them and they slowly reveal or remember some of the family secrets (like coating the dough with EVOO before coiling). I hope to perfect this by Christmas day. Most of my elderly relatives like them with very little topping, more like brioche.

    The other week, another aunt secretly handed me the recipe of a grand aunt for torta and we were so amused with how it was written in both spanish and bisaya. I’m still trying to figure out the size of the condensed milk can she use as measuring cup!! (hahaha). And 60 native egg yolks!!!! OMG!!!

    I hope more and more of us will try to acquire and learn to make the recipes of our ancestors, so that we can connect to our roots thru food!!

    I’m hoping my other aunt will eventually pass on to me her recipe for tocino del cielo!!

    Moni, I do have them at the store, but only on order. Give me at least 2 days notice.

    Dec 13, 2008 | 1:09 am

     
  22. marc medina says:

    panalo ang torta. siguro pinsan yang ng ensaimadang kapampangan…..

    Dec 13, 2008 | 1:12 am

     
  23. moni says:

    Artisan, thanks. What are the contact details of the store?

    Dec 13, 2008 | 1:53 am

     
  24. sister says:

    Artisan chocolatier- the usual size of a Magnolia condensed milk can was 14 oz or approximately 1 3/4 c. so you can try working back from that. Nice looking ensaimada.
    The original ensaimada recipe from the Veloso side of the family started out with 100 eggyolks and one ganta of flour.
    crisb is right that what is missing now in commercial ensaimadas is a properly developed fermented flavour, probably because a lavadora or sponge is no longer being used and a long rising period has been eliminated.
    I’ve been working on a panettone recipe for marketmanila and I think I finally have a good one and it involves 5 separate rising periods and the better part of 2 days to make…

    Dec 13, 2008 | 1:59 am

     
  25. tercer says:

    Hello Marc

    In my childhood, I used to go with my father to the fields of Candaba and Arayat. When my grandmother was still alive, she used to make these wonderful cookies at around Christmas time, the San Nicolas cookies. I’ve searched Filipino stores and bakeries in the US but never have found them. Would you be willing to share the recipe? I’ve also found that for me, the best Sans Rival cake and Silvana cookies are those from the heartland of Pampanga.

    By the way, someone asked in an earlier post the origin of the term “hinayupak”. The origin is actually a mesh of two words; “hayop” and “limpak”. The term “limpak” is a tagalog word to mean “piles of” as popularized in those tv gameshows that has prizes of “limpak-limpak na salapi”. The term “hayop” in this case does not mean “animal”. Instead, it was coined in the 1960s by Filipino teens in their attempt to “Filipinize” their American counterparts’ new lingo. It’s a take from the then popular term “wild” as in “That’s wild!” to indicate excitement and approval. In Filipino, we would say “Hayop!” to indicate we are impressed with something. The same with the term “ang bigat” from the American term “that’s heavy” to mean something profound/meaningful/complicated. And many other terms. If memory serves, many of these terms were used and even popularized in the 70s by the musical/comedy group Apo Hiking Society.

    Sorry MarketMan, I didn’t mean to ramble on like that in your blog. Just got a little carried away.

    Dec 13, 2008 | 2:07 am

     
  26. chrisb says:

    MM’s Sister, that’s one special panettone! Can’t wait for that post so I can try it. Sadly, most breads here today totally lack complexity: it’s either just sweet, a little salty, or cheesy. The secret to a deep butter flavor is not just lots of butter but yeast. One byproduct of yeast fermentation is diacetyl, which is also the chemical that gives butter it’s characteristic flavor. Anyway, it’s good that MM has has been advocating for old ensaimada recipes…

    Dec 13, 2008 | 2:31 am

     
  27. marc medina says:

    yet another treatise on the etymology of the word “hinayupak…” panalo. but since di pa ako pinapanganak nung 70s…di ko alam yan eh….(sige aling myra p humirit ka).

    saniculas cookies (ganyan ang spelling daw sa pampanga…ewan) used to be made only during the feast of, well, san nicolas, pero all year round na ngayon. there’s a family in mexico that made a business out of it, called dundee’s. tapos may gumaya na isang pamilya sa kabilang kanto na ang pangalan ay…hulaan mo…eh di deedun’s. simple lang.

    the best ones i’ve tried are made by imang lillian borromeo around the corner from mexico church. i don’t know where she got the recipe pero i think her recipe is a cousin of the ones the rodriiguezes used to make (as in des rodriguez torres ng salcedo market). imang lillian has the santo entierro so everyone knows her there. she’s very very generous with her recipe. i’ll ask her kung pwede. hindi kasi ako marunong nun even if my mom has one of those antique molds for san nicolas. may dekorasyon pa kasi yung mga molds niyan eh, with…hulaan mo ulit…san nicolas.

    pahanap ko yung episode ng travel time na na-feature si imang lillian. binigay niya yung recipe dun eh. nakakapagod gawin kaya bumibili nalang kami. at ang bait-bait ni imang lillian ang sarap bumisita para lang maki-kwento. she’s a granddaugther of monico mercado, one of pampanga’s turn of the century men of letters. yung kanyang dulce prenda (that used to be made in honor of la naval) ay parang sandwich ng saniculas na palaman minatamis na kundol (na galing arayat kasi ninanakaw lahat sa mexico).

    email me if you need more info marcoscalomedina@gmail.com

    Dec 13, 2008 | 3:57 am

     
  28. marc medina says:

    yung sansrival nga pala yung pinakamasarp na natikman ko na pwedeng i-order commercially is from mitzi hizon, pinsan ni….hulaan nyo for the last time…des rodriguez torres ng salcedo market..TA-DAN!

    pero masarap din yung sa mga guanzon sa sta rita.

    Dec 13, 2008 | 4:02 am

     
  29. Maria Clara says:

    To Marc Medina: Maraming salamat sa iyong manga komento. Sana makuha mo ang recipe ni Imang Lilian Borromeo San Nicholas na talagang masarap. Hindi naman ako magbebenta, magnenegosyo or magtatayo nang bakery pero maganda ring naman ne meron kang recipe para kung walang magawa sa bahay me haharapin gawing. Kesa makipagkuwentuhan sa telepono ke Petrang tsismosa na ang usaping ay buhay nang me buhay. Kung minsang maganda ring ang tsismis lalo na me kasamang iskandalo. Potang akit ke in kekang komento masaya ku at bulamu atiku naman king Pampanga. Mekatipid kumong pamasahe. Eda kapa ikit pero bulamu a akakit dakang masaya, mapamatula at biyasang tao. Keng malaguang salita de kalidad kang talaga. Masanting at masaya ing Pasko mu.

    Dec 13, 2008 | 4:45 am

     
  30. marc medina says:

    at masanting at makatula ing pasko keka mu rin.

    if you want more on arayat and pampanga you can go to eatingasia.typepad.com the blog of robyn eckhardt whom MM praised for writing about arayat in the december edition of SAVEUR magazine (you can get it in the US). you can just search arayat or pampanga in the blog.

    petrang tsismosa? i think she’s now in arayat. she moved from your neighborhood to ours. or maybe that’s her cousin. in fact, karakal da reng petrang tsismosa karen….

    Dec 13, 2008 | 5:22 am

     
  31. MrsS says:

    Des’ ensaimada looks the the ensaimada of my childhood in Bacolod. My grandma always had them on weekends. It was also wrapped in wax paper and had an oily sheen from the butter (or margarine?). I never knew where she ordered it though.

    Dec 13, 2008 | 5:50 am

     
  32. diday says:

    It is Saturday, 7:56 am and i’ll come back later…. have to start my first laundry batch.

    Dec 13, 2008 | 6:27 am

     
  33. Mangaranon says:

    MM, the ones wrapped in the wax paper and my personal favorite ensaimada is made by Maricel Cunanan of Valle Verde.

    Dec 13, 2008 | 6:46 am

     
  34. Mimi says:

    Magandang Ensaimadang Umaga sa Inyong Lahat! I started Marc’s hinayupak na ensaimada at 5:30 pm yesterday, then I covered the dough – greased and undivided – with a damp dishtowel and foil, stuck it in the refrigerator and did my other errands. At 2 am today, I divided the dough, rolled out and buttered, then half with queso, half sans queso. Left it in an off oven with a dish of water at the oven to rise at around 2:45 am. Woke up at 7 am to switch on the oven to 325F, waited for 10 minutes to pre-heat. At 7:30 am I pulled them out and they were puffed and golden, I have never seen a more beautiful sight! I am just waiting for them to cool a bit, slather with butter and sugar, then enjoy. I just wanted to post this to say that the recipe is a keeper. Thanks to Marc (and to MM) for sharing!

    Dec 13, 2008 | 7:40 am

     
  35. millet says:

    minatamis na kondol! i miss that, along with caramelos! (does anybody make tham still?) my grandma would dip her caramelos for a second in a glass of water before eating them so they get crumbly verrry slowly in her mouth.

    Dec 13, 2008 | 8:32 am

     
  36. lyna says:

    I grew up in UP Village and Sunday breakfast was ensaimada from Kamias Bakery [don’t know if it is still there]. We would dip it in thick chocolate drinks made from tableya the traditional way. I really don’t remember if there was cheese on top but I do remember the bits of ham. So Yummy and so full of childhood memories. The new ensaimadas overloaded with cheese or yam or macapuno horrifies me! I like the traditional ones.

    Dec 13, 2008 | 8:49 am

     
  37. lyna says:

    Thank you Marc for the laughter and the lessons. I hope one of these days MM can organize a food tour to Pampanga with Marc as our tour guide. Seriously, this would really be great!!

    Dec 13, 2008 | 8:54 am

     
  38. Oona says:

    I didn’t read all the comments, but in case no one mentioned it, they also have ensaymada in Spain. It’s spelled ENSAIMADA there, and the bread part tastes exactly the same as the classical bread-y ensaymada (not the cakey one). Exactly the same. The only difference is that it has no cheese on top or anywhere. Instead they have a ton of powdered sugar on top of it.

    Dec 13, 2008 | 10:47 am

     
  39. Oona says:

    Dec 13, 2008 | 10:49 am

     
  40. diday says:

    Someday, I’ll experiment on ensaimada combining the different techniques and methods of MM and fellow food lovers. In my part of the woods, a famous Australian fresh bread and pastry bakery allowed a Filipino baker to bake fresh pan de sal for the Filipino mob but is only available on Saturdays. Maybe I could sway the owner to sell filipino ensaimada on Sundays?

    Dec 13, 2008 | 12:15 pm

     
  41. ECC says:

    Artisan Chocolatier – funny that you should mention receiving an old recipe written by a grandaunt. A year ago, while visiting the Phils., I was also handed down an old recipe book written/compiled by a grandaunt. It is typewritten in some kind of ledger sheet used by lawyers — now, of course, yellowing. Written mostly in Kapampangan, Spanish and a little bit of English. However, the directions are stated mostly as reminders rather than in detaiIs. I would like to test and then write down these recipes and share with all of my cousins — if only someone can translate!

    Marc – I think you will get a kick out of this recipe book. To give you an example, here is the recipe (as written) for Tocino Del Cielo:

    20 malutung ebun
    1-1/2 taza azucal
    6 cuchara mantequilla
    1 taza azucal para quipingan

    Gauan quiping ing azucal at ibili maimpis caring moldes o dinan lang tungal cuchara balang metung.
    Gauan almibar a marayuput baguia at iparimla, ding malutung ebun sabulan lang baguia yabe ing almibar. Ing mantequilla sabulan caibat yabe ditac ditac caniti ing ebun a maqui almibar. Ilulan 3 cuchara caring moldes at ilutu la qng horno maca bano-maria lub na ning 30 o 40 minutos.

    Dec 13, 2008 | 12:24 pm

     
  42. Shan says:

    theres this stall in shangrila plaza mall that sells really good ensaymada.. does anyone remember the name of that stall?

    http://the-f-word-blog.blogspot.com/

    Dec 13, 2008 | 12:58 pm

     
  43. Alan says:

    Hi! I was wondering if the San Nicolas cookies you guys are talking about are those off white cookies with the impression of a saint on it. I had those when I was young in my grandparent’s house in Sta. Ana, near the race tack. The old market near the Sta. Ana church used to have them there. If I remember correctly, they were called Uraro or Araro. Are those the ones? Does anyone remember Tira-Tira candy? Its an old type of candy that were shaped like small (about finger length and size) golden logs that were very hard but after a few minutes of soaking in your mouth, would easily fall apart. It had a caramel flavor and was very sticky. My auntie used to buy it from the old Sta. Ana wet market along with the Uraro biscuits and puto seko. Anybody know where I can get Tira-tira now?

    Dec 13, 2008 | 3:12 pm

     
  44. estella says:

    ecc, you can tell that recipe is quite old. it’s a keeper and
    will be tempted to make it,when i get the chance, and see the outcome. can you share with us some of the other recipes? thanks…

    Dec 13, 2008 | 3:24 pm

     
  45. Raneli says:

    Hello Ensaymada fans: there’s nothing like a good ensaymada to perk you up in the morning X’mas season or not. Just wondering..will the ensaymada recipe work for lets say ,you adding olives, sundried tomatoes or pimientos, etc. on the dough minus the sugar? will it be similar to the foccacia bread recipe? Just curious…

    Dec 13, 2008 | 3:41 pm

     
  46. Raneli says:

    Allan: Oo nga naman..parang nawala yun Tira-tira sa market. Wonder what happened. It was such a sickly sugary treat found in supermarkets way back in the 70’s.

    Dec 13, 2008 | 3:46 pm

     
  47. lee says:

    i could read a few hundred more comments of this kind. keep em coming! Sayang lang I don’t have an ensaymada to munch on while reading.

    maraming salamat marc et al.

    Dec 13, 2008 | 7:24 pm

     
  48. marc medina says:

    that’s the standard recipe for tocino! keep that and experriment, because most families in pamapnga have something like that as a template. then each family has their own variations. some more butter, some less. kami we use more butter and burn the sugar for “quiping” so that after baking it bain-marie you have this dark silken syrup lathered over the tocino (o ayan ha..marunong din ako mag-ingles…huwag niyo akong lait-laitin!).

    tapos you the hot butter/water mixture slowly into the egg yolks and use a toothpick kasi magba-bubbles yan if you use a spoon, which you don’t want. tapos run it through a sieve and pour into the mold.

    re saniculas and uraro, the uraro is the powdery cookies that they used to make well in bacolor. after lahar, most of them moved to the housing estates between arayat and magalang. so dun na kami bumibili pero huwag kayong pumunta ng gabi dahil tabi yan nag bundok arayat. baka may makita kayong diwata at maluwa niyo ang uraro.

    re tira-tira, may gumagawa pa sa arayat pero mayabang na sila ngayon. ganun din sa gumagawa ng samani (yung mga baskets made out of peanuts and syrup). yung tira-tira minimum order 100 pieces at sa yo pa ang dayap. gusto kong sabihin sa kanila: hello pipol, negosyo ito…ibato ko kaya sa inyo ang dayap ano?

    if your into that try the espasol from san fernando. it’s on the road going to pasudeco sa san fernando. they make the espasol with kundol, which makes it much much softer than the laguna version. ask des rodriguez torres sa salcedo market. pwede niyang dalhin galing pampanga. they’re available in suzie’s sa nepo mart sa angeles, pero fridays lang.

    Dec 13, 2008 | 8:28 pm

     
  49. marissewalangkaparis says:

    Marc ,finally got your ensaimada and I couldn’t wait to get home so I started eating it in the car.Before I finished the entire thing–I remembered my cholesterol level..hahaha… I had to stop……it was sooooo good I finished one half of that big thing!! I should find time to try your recipe.(After the holidays…am so busy–visitors galore!!) If I’m lazy,I’ll motor over to Salcedo Mkt. Des ran out of ensaimadas so I didn’t get to try them. Next time perhaps….
    MM,hope you’re nearly done with those ornaments and it was great to see you again. I salute you for patiently doing that for those children. Great to see you this morning.
    Sister mentioned your Veloso side and I think my hubby might be related to you.Hahahaha.
    I got a vanilla pod too(pricey) and the vanillin extract. Smells so good . I have vodka and am excited to try this out tomorrow. By January,I will have a bottle of vanilla (home made)wheeeeeeee…..I second-the-motion for a “food trip” to Pampanga. That really sounds interesting. I noticed there were a lot of Pampanga booth owners in the Salcedo Market. So many yummies. Wish I could intern in Pampanga to learn to cook all those yummies. I love this posts…you learn a lot. I envy you guys who have lolas with written recipes. I remember my lola making santol and calamansi preserves. I was too young to learn or appreciate them.She had those wonderful thick preserving jars lined along the cabinets. She also made kare-kare that everybody loved. My elder sister learned them but I was way too young to be interested…Sayang. Hope those who have recipes from yore will pass them to their children. Happy weekend all!!!

    Dec 13, 2008 | 9:23 pm

     
  50. marissewalangkaparis says:

    PS teehee…I miss those tiratira to….

    Dec 13, 2008 | 9:25 pm

     
  51. ECC says:

    Acheng Estella, send me your e-mail address. Koyang Marc, salamat for the tips. I remember that Pasudeco you mentioned – you could smell the stink miles away diba?

    Dec 13, 2008 | 9:34 pm

     
  52. Angela says:

    Hey, ECC and Marc! If you’re sharing recipes, I’d love to try some of yours. (Marc, I’ll be trying your ensaimada recipe from the Saveur magazine this weekend)

    Here’s my email address: masmoral@hotmail.com

    Thanks!

    Dec 13, 2008 | 10:09 pm

     
  53. Artisan Chocolatier says:

    moni..text me at 0928-984-3609

    Sister…would the size of magnolia condensed be the same as the senorita condensada? I think this was the brand my grand aunt was using. Here’s an excerpt of her recipe

    “60 huevos pughac
    3-1/2 lata condensada azucar para 3 moldes gueseo
    3/4 leche condensada senorita con
    1 lata condensada vacia de agua cutaon
    10 latas condensada harena”

    The first time I went thru her recipe, I thought to myself “WOW! thats a lot of condensed milk!!” hahaha..thats when I realized she was using the can as measuring cup.

    Another recipe has this as ingredient
    “2 cucharas yes”….O Marc M hulaan mo ito….Only after I remembered the heavy bisaya accent did I realize that she meant “2 cucharas yeast”..hahaha..bless her soul! ECC…I’m sure you will enjoy reading the recipes of old.

    I agree with sister and crisb that what is missing in most commercial baking (and not just in making ensaimada, but all yeast based products) is TIME. People are just in a hurry to get the end result and not allowing the product to develop its character flavor. Several bakers and restauranteurs I’ve met up with here in Cebu, are always surprise when I tell them that i only use the 4 basic ingredients (flour, salt, yeast, and water) when I make my artisan breads and wonder why their breads lack the depth of flavor that mine has. And I always remind them that its because I always start with a poolish/biga/starter dough and that i never use instant yeast.

    Dec 14, 2008 | 12:18 am

     
  54. Artisan Chocolatier says:

    Sister…thanks for the compliment on the looks of my braided ensaimada.

    Another aunt of mine also gave me kudos for it and even preferred the plain variety with nothing on top so that she could appreciate the color of the crust! Needless to say, she task me with making for her a large brioche (she even lent me her mold from france!) for Christmas day.

    Dec 14, 2008 | 12:24 am

     
  55. marc medina says:

    GRABE PANALO YAN! ako din i want a grand-aunt with a visayan accent also! actually, meron din kasi taga-agusan ang aking nanay. pero ang ganda…YES…as in, enstant yes…tsaka gusto ko din yung kanyang HARENA… akala ko nga kapampangan siya eh! ano ba yan…all porpos harena..?

    Dec 14, 2008 | 4:35 am

     
  56. ted says:

    For those of you who can get to Salcedo market, you are all lucky for having the chance to taste good ensaimadas. I can only get the ones from Goldilocks and Blue Ribbon here in the SFO area. And OOna i think goldilock’s new version of the ensaimada topped with powdered sugar is to imitate the Spanish version (i don’t like it). I guess im just used to the sweet, buttery and salty taste of the cheese topping which i grew accustomed to.

    Dec 14, 2008 | 4:36 am

     
  57. marc medina says:

    hi angela, let me know how your ensaimada experiment goes. pag pinawisan kang gumagawa ng hinayupak na ensaimada, mabuti yan. yan ang pampalasa at pampalaki ng dough…huwag kalimutan ang iyong enstant yes (as per comments of artisan chocolatier)….

    Dec 14, 2008 | 4:53 am

     
  58. betty q. says:

    My buddy Ted (besides MC, ECC, CONNIE C. EBBAMYRA C…lahat sila may C!), I will come to your rescue sometime today…am just taking a break from shortbread cookie baking!…will e-mail you ensaymada (not the buns…make your own!) recipe so you can enjoy good old fashioned ensaymadas this Christmas with hot chocolate! No offense to you Marc, MM and Sister…but we are getting older and have to watch things we eat…TED

    Dec 14, 2008 | 5:40 am

     
  59. betty q. says:

    I know Connie C….word format! Anyway…as I was saying, Ted, the recipe I will send you is between Marc’s and Sister’s recipe…the texture is just like the 2nd picture up above! If you don’t have moulds, I still have enough 30 of them so you can make 1 batch this Christams you can share with your siblings with hot chocolate dapat! My next door neighbour is leaving for Disneyland sometime next week. If they are driving, I can ask them to bring those moulds…just hook up with them in LA…break over…back to baking!

    Dec 14, 2008 | 5:46 am

     
  60. marc medina says:

    who’s offended? that’s the beauty of ensaimada nga ang dami-daming version. at walang da best diyan…depende yan sa panlasa mo. ewan ko naman ba’t ang fixation nating mga pinoy nasa ensaimada…

    Dec 14, 2008 | 7:08 am

     
  61. betty q. says:

    You know, Kuya Marc…in more ways than one, you have come to my rescue as well! I think I will use the idea you mentioned up above…Pinoy’s fixation and how it relates to North American Sweet Breads….maybe I will start with the evolution of Pinoy BRIOCHE and Pinoy’s “fixation”towards it as my thesis when the time comes. I am currently taking up a few courses towards it…wish me luck!

    Dec 14, 2008 | 7:37 am

     
  62. Jun says:

    I’m rushing to hospital….Got overdose of ensaimada after reading this topic ;)….One more key ingredient Marc, betty q, sister, artisan that you have on your bread/ensaimada compare to commercial one is your love for baking/cooking. This key ingredients will always comes out in every food that you bake/cook.

    Anyway I’m off to a 3 weeks holiday after my last business trip this week and ensaimada baking is one of my things to do this Christmas holiday.

    Dec 14, 2008 | 8:17 am

     
  63. marc medina says:

    sa totoo lang, i hate baking.

    Dec 14, 2008 | 8:23 am

     
  64. betty q. says:

    Manong Marc…in more ways than one, you have come to my rescue as well. You have given me the idea I needed to do my thesis on when the time comes. I am currently taking a few courses towards it…The Pinoy Brioche..how it relates to North American Brioche..I think I will start with the evolution of the ensaimada …yes! that will give me an excuse to go back home!!!!

    Dec 14, 2008 | 8:29 am

     
  65. marc medina says:

    i was actually thinking of writing a book on the ensaimada. kaya lang as ususal tinamad ako. that’s actually a very interesting topic, even here at oxford. there are food conferences where they talk about vinegar and even eggs. i don’t know when the next one is. there’s actually a phd course in the school of oriental and african studies called the anthropology of food…

    Dec 14, 2008 | 8:40 am

     
  66. marissewalangkaparis says:

    Wow, do let us know when you’re here bettyq. Am dying to meet a baking/cooking guru. Have not tried the recipes. Have been preparing for the arrival of my daughter-balikbayans. So many things to do aside from the usual holiday stuff.
    MM,Went back thru the Vanilla posts as I am about to do the Vodka-vanilla pod thingey…so about June I’ll have a bottle of home made vanilla with the pods I got..and Vodka.Hope I got the proportions correctly…

    Again,bettq,do let us know when you’re coming home…..For now,am back to the kitchen…for some food gifts I have to finish…and that vanilla thingey…

    Dec 14, 2008 | 8:48 am

     
  67. betty q. says:

    When the time comes, Manong Marc…do you want to collaborate?…that would be interesting….a Kapampangan and a Batangguena points of view!….hahaha….with lots of ala,eh! and mekeni!!!

    Dec 14, 2008 | 8:54 am

     
  68. marc medina says:

    ano nga ba talaga ang fixation ng mga pinoy sa ensaimada ha?? ano ba talaga ate?? grabe talaga. parang makikipag-patayan mga pinoy para lang sa “da best” na ensaimada no??

    Dec 14, 2008 | 8:59 am

     
  69. betty q. says:

    That…Manong Marc will be another chapter in our collaborative efforts…Pinoy Brioche (the quest for “da best”…it rhymes!!!!))…is it worth killing an/or keeling over?….hahaha…masakit na ang tiyan ko!!!!

    Dec 14, 2008 | 9:08 am

     
  70. sister says:

    Artisan chocolatier- ask marketman to give you the panettone recipe, I think you should test the recipe, I had to measure for the sake of writing the recipe, I have the tendency to wing it with breads and measure with my eyes. I’m waiting for my son to take pictures so marketman can put it on marketmanila before Christmas.
    I’m in the midst of my holiday baking- fruitcakes done before Thanksgiving and already sailing their way home hopefully in time for Christmas,a thousand cookies, kugelhoff, panettone, stollen, and of course, ensaimada. It sounds nuts but it makes for great gifts for rels as well specially for those friends who still have millions after the last few months but can’t crack an egg.
    If I remember correctly the senorita can of condensed milk was 13 oz. about 1 2/3 c.
    Marketman tells me we used to live a block away from your parents’ home in Cebu.

    Dec 14, 2008 | 10:13 am

     
  71. moni says:

    Artisan Chocolatier, thanks for the number.

    This is off-ensaimada topic. Marc, now it is confirmed. I had this gut feeling that your Mom is from Agusan because the Calos are from there. We had these friends from the University of Hawaii before, Dr. L.L. Calo, and we even visited their house in Butuan City. While you’re doing graduate studies in Development Studies, Lee is a thesis short of finishing his MS in Education major in instructional design. For his thesis, Lee is thinking of examining the new social media — http://www.marketmanila.com. I offered to help him with his thesis.

    Dec 14, 2008 | 11:44 am

     
  72. Connie C says:

    I was right after all. I told Betty Q she was getting withdrawal symptoms from not posting while MM was busy with other stuff. But she is back! and she is supposed to be baking a gazillion cookies I could smell the scent of vanilla wafting from her kitchen in British Columbia.

    Meanwhile, as you are all busy discussing your favorite ensaimada recipe, I am busy cutting up dried (up )fruits; raisins, cranberries, strawberries, peaches, even dried mango, etc. to soak overnight in ginger ale flavored with artificial rum. Sorry Betty Q, me ‘lergic to rum. I will simmer with apple juice tomorrow then throw ’em all in the food processor then mix with a 10 day old chocolate cake I did not want to throw away then roll ’em to a log in a sushi mat to make Betty Q’s Chocolate Salami or should we call it a Holiday Faux Fruit Cake?

    Sorry Sister, you said no substitutions on your killer fruit cake recipe. Maybe next year.

    I’ll tell you how it turns out and if I win new friends after serving a left over chocolate cake recipe by BettyQ.

    Dec 14, 2008 | 12:06 pm

     
  73. betty q. says:

    Ok…Is it just rum per se , Connie C. or other booze…I cannot imagine how a doctor can be allergic to alcohol? …Hay naku, don’t knock that recycled chocolate cake turned salami! I have friends here who would buy brownies, chocolate cake from Safeway or Costco and turn them into salamis! I know that the chocolate trifle recipe I sent you seems to be daunting…but if you make the components on different days, it will be a breeze…even here , we used to make the berry compote one day, then chocolate rum mousse on another day, the glaze on another day!

    Dec 14, 2008 | 12:47 pm

     
  74. fried-neurons says:

    Color me deprived… growing up in Manila, the only ensaimadas I ever had were the ones from Goldilocks. :)

    Dec 14, 2008 | 1:05 pm

     
  75. Jun says:

    hehehe Marc kaya siguro hinayupak yung ensaimada mo kasi you hate baking :)

    Dec 14, 2008 | 2:43 pm

     
  76. estella says:

    hi ecc! why don’t you give me your email muna? i would love to read more of the recipes from your old recipe book written in kapampangan. thanks, ecc.

    Dec 14, 2008 | 4:02 pm

     
  77. ging says:

    off topic…

    Moni, aside from the ensaimada, also try Artisan Chocolatier’s Sacher Torte, it’s awesome! And I’m particularly fond of the banana muffins he makes. And my sister says his wheat bread is also very good. All available at Suki.

    Excuse me MM, for the promo… :-)

    Dec 14, 2008 | 6:23 pm

     
  78. betty q. says:

    Connie C: ECC and EbbaMyra’s package arrived last Thurs. in Houston. Did you get yours yet? I mailed yours about 3 days earlier…

    Dec 14, 2008 | 6:59 pm

     
  79. sister says:

    Artisan Chocolatier, I’ll have to try your Sacher torte next time I’m in Cebu… my daughter loves it and we once carried back from Vienna on our laps on the plane several from the Sacher hotel for a friend who used to be the US ambassador to Vienna in the 40’s. Can’t do that these days anymore with Homeland Security rules.Talk about being food crazy.

    I love your old recipes. Yes, it was common to use the senorita 13 oz. can as a measuring cup. The old bakers of my Lola used to use a gallon can tabo and wooden ganta measures for dry ingredients.

    Baking bread is more challenging than cake because of the variables- yeast,flour, weather, humidity, etc.

    I visited your store with MM last time I was in Cebu and enjoyed everything we purchased. Thanks for being artisinal, it’s a lost art but slowly being revived by people like you.

    Dec 14, 2008 | 9:10 pm

     
  80. moni says:

    Ging, thanks for the info. Can we just walk into Suki and buy Artisan Chocolatier’s Sacher torte, banana muffins and wheat bread? Or do we order these 2 days ahead? Gosh, I’m so tempted to go to Cebu as soon as my schedule allows me. Lee and Edik, di ba mo moadto sab?

    Dec 14, 2008 | 9:49 pm

     
  81. marc medina says:

    yes moni, my grandad was cong. marcos calo (kaya ako naging marcos ha hindi dahil kay ferdinand) and my lola was gov. consuelo calo. dem calos all over da place ha hanggang sa tawi-tawi ata meron….

    hey betty q. email me your thoughts…maybe you can come over here for the next food symposium. the lats time they had it pia lim-castillo delivered a paper on vinegar and eggs (as in yung puti ng itlog ginamit dati sa pag-construct ng mga simbahan nung panahon ng kastila…eh di nakilig ang mga hinyupak na puti diot???). yun speaker nila dati si felipe fernandez-armest who wrote “a thousand tables” you ought to read that. deep insights on the anthropology of food…

    marcoscalomemdina@gmail.com

    Dec 14, 2008 | 10:02 pm

     
  82. Connie C says:

    Hi BettyQ since you live here, sorry, but no package yet. I hope Homeland Security didn’t hijack thinking the molds to be dangerous weapons of waistline destruction,( instruments for Marc’s hinayupak na ensaimada).

    Yes, I’m allergic/intolerant to alcohol as many Asians are who for lack of the enzyme aldehyde dehydrogenase (ALDH) cannot convert alcohol into acetic acid (vinegar) in the liver.

    Marc, sige nga, a collaborative effort between you and BettyQ… as if your academic work at Oxford is not enough, or you might just decide to take on the Anthropology of the Kapampangan cuisine, and the evolution of manok to ebun or ebun to manok whichever came first, to wile away your time when dark gloomy skies are over the UK.

    And indeed, to MM’s great credit this website has become some kind of a social phenomenon; without necessarily exposing one’s vital statistics (not in the league of Facebook or Friendster) yet giving one an idea of what drives people’s passions and a peek into their minds and souls. I have gained not only useful information beyond the culinary , but also been entertained by Marc’s down-home remarks and acquired new friends from the netizens who visit this website. You have all spiced up my retirement life.

    THANK YOU MM FOR ALLOWING ALL THESE TO HAPPEN!!!!

    Dec 14, 2008 | 10:03 pm

     
  83. marc medina says:

    and better yet…bakit sa kapampangan ebun is egg at sa tagalo ebun is bird? teka. ibon pala. mas magandang topic yun. umpisahan na natin ang research dito…

    ako din wala akong adleheydye hsrysaoidieblahblah whatever you call dat, pero wa ako care dati. ayan. tumaba tuloy. ngayon ensaimada nalang pampataba ko walang alcohol…

    Dec 14, 2008 | 10:16 pm

     
  84. moni says:

    Marc, in Butuan City, kahit saan ka umikot, Calo ang street name. I’ve been to Butuan many times but do they have a hinayupak food there, the likes of your ensaimada?

    Dec 14, 2008 | 10:45 pm

     
  85. marissewalangkaparis says:

    Hi MM!! I tried your Date-walnut bars (aka food for the Gods) and they were great!! Hubby gave the two thumbs up while demolishing several bars (I made smaller ones as you suggested as they were very rich). The color was rich dark golden yellow (unlike most Fftg),and I would like them to darken a bit. Would muscovado sugar do that? I intend to try that this week.The 9 x 9 pan is a goner. I got wonderful pitted dates at Shopwise (not awfully sweet). Thanks for that recipe MM. Am so grateful. I will try them with figs and dates next time as I have some stock of candied figs.

    Have started my Vanilla-Vodka infusion and hopefully will have some wonderful vanilla before June.

    Bettyq,I made the brownies from one of your posts but I did not come up with the correct “brownie” color. I guess it must have been because of the baking chocolate–although they tasted very well!! But I will do that again this week before my daughters arrive. I will look for the exact brands you gave. My elder son said they were yummy but commented that the color was anemic…Hahahahaha!! Naging golden katulad ng hinayupak na ensaimada ang kulay pero dark brown sa loob. Hahahaha…Salamat…I will let you know.

    I now have langka water and will try them tomorrow-as you suggested with the kutchinta. Kutchinta with niyog,kutchinta with cheese topping…thanks for your kutchinta recipe…have given them out as gifts. Mukhang kutchinta na ako. Hahahaha! I place them in big windowed Christmas boxes and in small fluted Christmas cups with cheese toppings. People are amazed especially they are home made. Am grateful bettyq….
    Congatulations MIMI for your ensaimada!! Great job!! Ang haba ng process so I will have to put that off till after Christmas as my skeds are chaotic.
    I do my baking only after work or weekends..

    Dec 14, 2008 | 10:53 pm

     
  86. marc medina says:

    try margie’s kitchen, owned and operated by…hulaan mo…eh di CALO? and of course the lechons are brilliant. similar to cebu’s except they fill it with all sorts of stuff. basahin mo sa eatingasia.typepad.com, do a search for butuan city and/or agusan.

    pati mga uod na galing puno ng sago priniprito at kinakain. laban ka? doreen fernandez also called it the land of kinilaw kasi da best talaga dun. sa palengke hanapin mo si leo, yung kinilaw master dun. nakakatawa siya sobra. naglalagay sila ng kabayawa at tabon-tabon sa kinilaw dun. basta basahin mo nalang sa eatingasia.typepad.com….

    Dec 14, 2008 | 10:56 pm

     
  87. moni says:

    Marc, thanks for the tip about Margie’s Kitchen in Butuan. MM, sorry, ginawa na naming tambayan ang blog mo.

    Dec 14, 2008 | 11:16 pm

     
  88. Artisan Chocolatier says:

    Marc…CORRECT KA DIYAN…Buti nalang na harena at hindi makarena!! Also, ang pawis ay ang secret ingredient to adding complex flavor to the ensaimada…hahaha

    Sister…yes, we live up the road from your parents place. Our’s was the corner house up on the hill.

    What?! You and MM came by the store together!!! If I had known, I would have rolled out the red carpet and had a marching band playing out front! hehehe.

    Ging, you too been coming to the store?! Text me next time if you have a craving for something and I’ll make sure I have it at the store.

    Moni, its best you give me notice, so I can be sure to have everything in stock and be in the store to welcome you too!

    Dec 14, 2008 | 11:48 pm

     
  89. marc medina says:

    teka. who makes those lovely lace chocolate cookies from cebu? okey lang yan kay MM na tambayan ang blog niya i’m sure!

    Dec 15, 2008 | 12:04 am

     
  90. marc medina says:

    yung binebenta sa blue kitchen sa power plant na ubod ng hinayupak na mahal…..

    Dec 15, 2008 | 12:05 am

     
  91. betty q. says:

    Marisse…I really must be getting old …don’t recall posting brownies. I only remember posting Wolgang Puck’s cookie…At any rate…here is my standby brownie recipe when the boys want a quick chocolate fix! I usually have all the ingredients in the pantry all the time so even my little one can do it if I am not home! The yield of this regular chocolatey fudgy brownie is 16 squares…using an 8 inch square pan.

    5 oz. bittersweet chocolate…if you can’t get it…semi sweet will do
    3 oz. unsweetened chocolate
    5 tbsp. butter

    Melt both chocolates with butter and set it aside

    2 eggs
    1 cup sugar
    pinch of salt
    1 tsp. vanilla
    3 tbsp.cocoa
    1/3 cup flour
    Whisk eggs and sugar BY HAND using a whisk until billowy.When you lift teh whisk, the eggs flow in slow motion from the whisk.Add salt and vanilla and cocoa. Blend to combine. Add the melted chocolate. and blend again just to combine. Sift the flour over it and lightly mix it in. Pour into greased and lined with foil and greased again and floured baking pan. For easy transfr and lifting of brownie when cold enough, have foil overhang…Bake 20 to 25 minutes. Depending on your oven , I find 22 minutes enough…you want moist crumbs attaching to toothpick when you test it. DO NOT OVERBAKE!

    Now..here is a good for you smacking, moist, not heavy on the stomach brownie. Sa dami ng pieces of paper in my Tupperware, I think this one cam from this nice old Italian lady I used to work with kasi each time I placed my weekly order with the wholesaler, she would say at the top of her voice…Bettina San …no forget mi OLIO!

    Yield…12 squares or 16 using 8 inch square pan prepped the same way above

    3 oz. semi-sweet chocolate
    1 oz. unsweetened chocolate
    1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil…don’t go overboard and buy the most expensive ones…no, no, no
    1/2 cup all purpose flour
    pinch of salt
    1 cup sugar( but I usually use only 3/4 cup when I make it)
    1 tsp. vanilla
    1 cup toasted pecans (optional), coasely chopped
    2 eggs
    2 Tbsp. cocoa ( I added this to her recipe without her knowing it since I want a darker color…If she knew I tampered with her recipe, she will not talk to me for days!)

    Do exactly the same procedure up above.

    You just have to try this Marisse! This Jamie…if you here as well, is a must try!

    Dec 15, 2008 | 12:30 am

     
  92. marc medina says:

    ang hirap naman. panay ingles.

    Dec 15, 2008 | 1:39 am

     
  93. The Steak Lady says:

    Artisan Chocolatier, your store is one of my first stop in Cebu during the Christmas break! :-)

    Dec 15, 2008 | 2:26 am

     
  94. ECC says:

    Acheng Estella, send me a note at bebettcruz@yahoo.com. One of the recipes is for “Chicken Fatties” …. I had a good laugh! Aside from Kapampangan, can you also read and translate from Spanish?

    Dec 15, 2008 | 3:41 am

     
  95. betty q. says:

    Hirap na hirap na nga ako magtype, Manong Marc…e, pa Tatagalugin mo pa sa akin lahat?!?…e, di bukas na ako matutulog!

    Dec 15, 2008 | 6:18 am

     
  96. marc medina says:

    okay lang yun…mag simbang gabi ka muna…kung wala bibingka at puto bumbong na lang. grabe na mi-miss ko higit sa lahat ang simbang gabi sa atin. hay….

    Dec 15, 2008 | 6:23 am

     
  97. estella says:

    i will email you before i leave tomorrow for the philippines. yes, i will be glad to translate the recipes for you from kapampangan to english, and spanish to english… nanu ya kaya ing “chicken fatties” recipe aini?

    Dec 15, 2008 | 6:26 am

     
  98. marc medina says:

    chicharong balat ng manok…o sa wikang arayat: manok siningkotsa.

    Dec 15, 2008 | 6:31 am

     
  99. betty q. says:

    Kagagaling ko lang magsimba…baka naman lumampas na ako sa langit. Hay, buti na lang napaalala mo …kailangan ko pala gumawa ng Puto Ube para sa kapitbahay ko!

    Manong…describe the Blue Kitchen chocolate lace cookies to me please! …texture, color, taste as accurate as you can. Kung meron kang picture (ikaw pati iyong cookie…hahaha…) mas magaling so i know what to aim for!

    Dec 15, 2008 | 6:36 am

     
  100. marc medina says:

    teka. mahirap ata yan…calling MM baka naman may picture ka diyan at pwedeng i-post? basta maliit, parang sugar lace cookies na butas butas yung cookie na ginawang sandwich na ang palaman ay white o dark chocolate. sa cebu lang daw galing yun. ewan. sobrang tamis pero masarap isawsaw sa kape.

    Dec 15, 2008 | 6:39 am

     
  101. betty q. says:

    Alam ninyo ba kung saan masarap ihalo iyong MANOK SININGKOTSA?…hay, naku! this is MAJOR HINAYUPAK NA NAKAKAMATAY( to die for!)….ihalo ninyo mga MRS. sa mashed potatoes na kasama and sininkotsa na sibuyas!

    Dec 15, 2008 | 6:48 am

     
  102. marc medina says:

    grabe! da best ata yang mashed potatoes! gagawin ko yan dito! kasi mga hinayupak na ingles di marunong kumain eh ba naman may i throw away ang mga balat ng manok? heller… pinakamasarap kaya yan!!!

    Dec 15, 2008 | 6:55 am

     
  103. marissewalangkaparis says:

    Thanks bettyq. Will try that as well. The lace cookies are really thin and crispy. Am on my way to the office.Let me get the name of the maker in Cebu……

    Dec 15, 2008 | 7:04 am

     
  104. maria says:

    ha ha ha marc medina, you are so funny. i totally agree. Welcome to the chicken skin club! happy ako co-member kita!

    mm, are you ok? it’s been days na since your last post. i miss your daily posts hu hu hu

    Dec 15, 2008 | 7:32 am

     
  105. betty q. says:

    Pero Manong…kung gagawin mo iyon para sa mga ____ na Ingles…at nagustuhan nila, hindi na nila ibibigay sa iyo ang mga balat ng manok! Mapipilitan ka ngayon bumili lang ng puro balat!

    Dec 15, 2008 | 7:34 am

     
  106. ging says:

    marc,

    Those lace cookies or tuille de chocolat (I think that’s what they are called on the container) are available at “Merto’s” at Escario St and in SM. There is a cell number (only) to indicate who really makes them.

    I have not eaten them for some time because the dark and milk chocolate varieties run out lightning fast. Only the mint chocolate flavor is left which not a lot of people care for.

    Dec 15, 2008 | 8:00 am

     
  107. Marketman says:

    I am so happy that readers can amuse each other while I am on hiatus. Heeheehee. I had to wrap up the ornaments pick-up and summarize all the donations received so far. Baked about 60 organic egg yolks worth of ensaimadas. Made 150 brownies. Gingerbread cookies. Helped the Teen wrap up her gingerbread creation. Sneak in some Christmas shopping. Worry about a recipe I owe Joey of 80breakfasts. Get some sleep. And shop for meal coming up… Arrrghhh, why does it always seem that there are too few hours in a December day? I type this is in a good way, of course. :)

    Dec 15, 2008 | 8:01 am

     
  108. ging says:

    Artisan,

    Suki is incredibly convenient. My friends and I drop by on the way to Ma. Luisa via Busay Gate. No need to go back down the hill anymore if we suddenly get a call to bring bread, wine or something sweet. Thanks!

    Dec 15, 2008 | 8:23 am

     
  109. ging says:

    marc,

    How much do the lace cookies go for in manila? They cost only around p600 for a large container over here. Not bad, considering the taste and quality I’m getting :-)

    Dec 15, 2008 | 8:26 am

     
  110. Tessa Cruz says:

    Sadly, my two attempts at ensaimada this weekend were dismal failures. I tried to follow MM’s previous recipe as best I can, but I think the yeast was my downfall. The other attempt was another recipe that involved a bread machine.

    So now I have to be content with READING ABOUT those lovely, heavenly delights … sigh …

    Forlornly,
    Tessa in Ensaimada-less Atlanta

    Dec 15, 2008 | 9:14 am

     
  111. Lee says:

    I nominate myself as vice president of the chicken skin club.

    Dec 15, 2008 | 9:22 am

     
  112. ging says:

    marc,
    sorry, sorry, got it wrong. my brain cells are aging!
    the lace cookies are called DENTELLE AU CHOCOLAT and are made my Lyn Moro. (02) 420 4933 / 0917 622 0427

    Dec 15, 2008 | 9:45 am

     
  113. des says:

    yes, MM. it is so nice to have this much interest re ensaimadas! and kulang sa araw and december. :)
    the ensaimadas are still baked by my grand aunt’s kitchen – apung batic rodriguez, who now stays in san fernando, pampanga after lahar buried the ancestral home in bacolor. she’s 98 years old–without cholesterol and diabetes. so for those that say that the richness of the ensaimadas will do them in, hmmmmm.

    Dec 15, 2008 | 12:15 pm

     
  114. Katrina says:

    Marc, I’ve bought your ensaimada several times, and in fact, I think I met you once, years ago. But I’m sure you wouldn’t remember me among hundreds (thousands?) of the people you meet at the market. I usually give the ensaimada to my dad, who misses the traditional style (although he also likes the modern Mary Grace ensaimada; there’s place for both). By the way, my paternal grandfather’s family is also from Pampanga — specifically, Macabebe. Last Saturday, I wanted to try Des’s version naman, but it ran out because of MM’s post! So instead, I again bought your, this time for myself. Matagal na rin kasing hindi ko kinakain ‘yun, medyo nakalimutan ko na’ng lasa. I didn’t have a chance to eat it until today, and I was hoping that it would still be moist after two days in the fridge. (I can’t leave it outside, or the ants would get it.) Well, let me just tell everyone that Marc’s hinayupak na ensaimada leaves up to its moniker, even days later! The quezo de bola mixed in the dough makes all the difference. I decided to eat it for lunch today while reading all the comments on this post — o, ‘di ba, am I not the luckiest, to be reading about wonderful ensaimada *while eating it*?! :-D I would normally eat it a wedge at a time, but I thought, since I’m eating it for lunch and not breakfast or merienda, I’ll eat the whole thing. Kaya ngayon, ako’y hinayupak na busog, at medyo inaantok na, kahit late na ‘kong gumising.

    I love those Belgian Lace Cookies AKA Dentelle au Chocolat! I first tried them in Blue Kitchen, then later had it in Cebu and found out they make it there. If I remember right, they cost around P450 in Blue Kitchen, but that was some time ago and prices have all shot up. They’re just wonderful with coffee! I could eat half the container if I didn’t stop myself.

    And Lee, I will contest you as VP of the Chicken Skin Club! I’m not a big fan of regular pork chicharon, and I don’t like chicharon bulaklak/bituka at all, but I could eat a plateful of chicken skin chicharon in no time at all! Sabayan mo pa ng beer! :-D

    Okay, tama na. In one comment, I talked about ensaimada, chocolate lace cookies and chicken skin. No wonder I can’t stop gaining weight! I’m off now to fry some bacon…

    Dec 15, 2008 | 2:08 pm

     
  115. betty q. says:

    Tessa in Ensaimada-less Atlanta: yeast? expiry date? MM’s recipe utilizes the sponge and dough method. ..sponge (lavadura)…one way to check the viability of the yeast also. Could it be you killed the yeast in extra hot liquid? I use the “tolerable heat finger index”…with clean finger, I put it in the pot of warm liquid. If I can tolerate the heat for at least 10 seconds, then I know I got the temp. I’m after. Also yeast used in MM’s is the traditional one. It really takes time.

    How about sending me an e-mail Ms. Tessa …mymudcake@hotmail.com….maybe I can help you trouble shoot….Sister would be the best resource person but I am sure she is up to her eyeballs with baking…me, I am too but not as bad as MM and Sister!!!

    DALI!!! You still have time to do another ensaymada dry run before Christmas.

    Dec 15, 2008 | 2:12 pm

     
  116. Katrina says:

    OMG, I didn’t proofread my last comment, and it’s rife with typos!!! Please forgive the spelling and grammatical errors, I’m mortified! I blame the hinayupak na ensaimada for making all the blood rush to my stomach and away from my brain. *hides face in shame*

    Dec 15, 2008 | 2:14 pm

     
  117. Lee says:

    Hi Katrina, the presidency I think i still up for grabs

    Dec 15, 2008 | 2:56 pm

     
  118. myra_p says:

    I have a large container of those Dentelle cookies in my fridge right now. Marc, I will think of you when I eat more of the later. Aren’t you coming home for Xmas?

    Dec 15, 2008 | 3:08 pm

     
  119. MarketFan says:

    yup, the large ensaymada is how i remember them from childhood days in the province

    Dec 15, 2008 | 5:10 pm

     
  120. betty q. says:

    Marisse…Unlike some of my relatives na puro hingi lang ng recipes pero wala namng hilig magluto or magbake, you and a few others like ECC, EbbaMyra, Maria Clara, Ted , Connie C. Dadd-F, Angela,Jun, (did I forget anyone?) are not afraid to try anything!

    Marc, on your behalf, Kahit hindi mo pa ako pinapadalhan ng larawan(naku! malalim na ba na Tagalog iyon para sa iyo?) ng cookie pati na ikaw…heto siguro ang hinahanap mo na hinayupak na napakamahal na cookie para sa iyong cafe! Kagagawa ko lang. Masaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrraaaaap! Binawasan ko ng asukal para hindi ka maging diabetic!

    Subukan mo gawin ito, Marisse at pagdating ni Marc diyan, paki abot ng isang batya ng ccokies na ito on my behalf!

    1/2 cup regular salted butter…put in a small pot and heat it up . let it become browned butter , Marisse…releases a more nutty aroma! But DO NOT BURN IT! Remove from heat as soon as it turns light brown!
    1/2 cup sugar
    2 tbsp. milk
    2 tbsp.corn syrup
    2/3cup all purpose flour
    2 tsp. vanilla
    1 1/2 cups roasted nuts (I used a combination of slivered almonds and pecans….you can sub roasted cashews there!), process in food processor until the size of grape nuts!.

    Mix the melted butter, sugar, cornsyrup, milk and nuts. Fold in flour last. Chill the cookie dough at least 4 hours (makes it easier to handle). I used the smallest ice cream scooper I had. I even used a melon baller kasi sabi ni Marc…maliit daw! This cookie will spread as it bakes. The melon ball size cookie turned out really cute! Do not crowd them on cookie sheet lined with parchment paper. kasi they will spread. When cool enough to handle. turn it over very carefully and put a dab of dark or milk choclate. I only had ganache so I spread a thin coating or layer over it and sandwiched it with another cookie….Oh, kasi maliliit, i maade a whooooole kaboodle!!! It’s garbage day tom. so i think I will give this to our Mr. Sanitation Suki or maybe not kung hindi titigilan ng asawa ko ngayong gabi ng puro isa pa nga!

    Dec 15, 2008 | 5:36 pm

     
  121. MarketFan says:

    grabe..I’m still commenting on the ensaymada photo above eh yung usapan pala napunta na si lace cookies at chicken skin..may common denominator nga yata ang lahat na yan..the big C in cholesterol..

    Dec 15, 2008 | 5:44 pm

     
  122. betty q. says:

    Oh, tom. kungwala ng matira for the boys merienda after school, I will make it again…half batch this time using butter pecan extract and the other half batch, i will add coconut with langka chips and cashews instead of almonds and pecans.

    Dec 15, 2008 | 6:09 pm

     
  123. marissewalangkaparis says:

    Wow…I just went to work and from 82 comments its now 100+…hahahaha…bettyq the phone no. of Lyn Moro is there. Her mother-in-law works in the same company I do but she is based in Cebu. Her lace cookies are terrific. I can not stop when I start eating them but they’re expensive.Am asking if they have a website so you can see how it looks like. I.m natataranta with all the recipes I want to bake. I just came from the kitchen to finish some of my baked gifts (banana-walnut-carrot cake).
    Hahaha I also made another batch of your now famous kutchinta (with cheese topping) which I will send to our Makati office as gifts tomorrow.
    I want to try that recipe you sent now.And of course I will do those brownies. I just came from the baker’s supply store and got tons of supplies. I have pecans and walnuts and almonds. So there–watch out oven!!

    Yes I miss MM…but was so happy to see he had posts already but I decided to read up on this muna. Thanks bettyq again. I guess when I start having grandchildren I can bake a lot of goodies for them. Hahahahaha!!!

    Dec 15, 2008 | 8:07 pm

     
  124. EbbaMyra says:

    Ms. BettyQ:

    Actually hae not tried making the ensaimada yet, but will very soon. Yeap ECC received her moulds, I would have to see her, para makita ko kung anong itsura.. and maybe, we can together cook/bake everything together, including the puto bumbong. By the way, you are Batanguena?

    Dec 15, 2008 | 8:41 pm

     
  125. betty q. says:

    Ms Ebba: When you decide the date when you will bond, let me know by e-mail. I shall call you there in Houston. There is a time difference, isn’t it?

    Did you do a dry run yet with your Puto Bumbong? I made htmelast year and will do them again soon…Have to give Onie some! Unless you have one of those heavy duty blenders that will pulverize anything, I found that my good old relable coffe/spice grinder works wonders. Wash your piruruton, Ebba, drain it thoroughly, let it sit on paper towels for a few hours to absorb excessmoisture and air dry or in the oven or maybe dehydrator hanggang matuyo like in the original state. Then put some of it in the spice grinder and pulverize them. it wll become pirurutong flour and just combine them with your malagkit and rice flour…

    Yup, I am aa full bloodied Batanguena from Tanauan. I know you are from Quezon!

    Marisse…just so you know, when baked, the brownies are rather thin….kaya i divide them into 12 slices only. if you want thicker than 3/4 inch, double the recipe…but you would have to bake it more than 24 minutes. But I much prefer the thin ones para hindi nakakaumay!

    Dec 15, 2008 | 11:38 pm

     
  126. Pia Carli says:

    Des Rodriguez-Torres is a national treasure in terms of maintaining and lovingly passing on classic recipes from Pampanga. Her food is an extension of her brilliance, passion and creativity. I’m sorry that I live all the way in Michigan and can’t access her cooking.

    Dec 16, 2008 | 6:36 am

     
  127. ECC says:

    Acheng Estella, remember that it was a Kapampangan who wrote the recipe. So, “Chicken Fatties” is actually “Chicken Patties”. Ha ha ha ha ….. But, Koyang Marc, I agree, Chicharon Balat ng Manok sounds and tastes better! BTW, what does “idescanso” mean? Is that Kapampangan or Spanish — I see it a lot in the old recipe book.

    Dec 16, 2008 | 7:41 am

     
  128. betty q. says:

    ECC, just in case Acheng Estella is already on her way to Pinas…descanso comes from the verb descansar meaning to rest or sleep. So descanso….first person referrring to I as opposed to You (second person…holy! I still remember!) and no, it isn’t Kapampangan!

    Dec 16, 2008 | 8:06 am

     
  129. MarketFan says:

    so bettyq, is “idescanso” rest for the dough or for the baker? ha ha just kidding….I can’t keep up with all your energy for baking and cooking and posting on this blog…I’m sure if you were here you will invite us all to a bakeout…hope to meet you in person some time soon :-)

    Dec 16, 2008 | 10:01 am

     
  130. betty q. says:

    MarketFan…OMG…I am this close to getting banned from Market Manila by my hubby!…like EbbaMyra and Ecc…napapabayaan na naming tatlo ang gawain sa bahay! Yes, Connie C. I am close to going into withdrawal! I hope there is a MManila rehab or detox out there for ECC, EbbaMyra and myself!

    Dec 16, 2008 | 10:12 am

     
  131. ECC says:

    Betty_Q,
    I knew
    You would come to the rescue.
    Thank you!

    (ayan, rhyming pa ha!)

    Dec 16, 2008 | 11:18 am

     
  132. Tessa Cruz says:

    Betty Q – yes, I think I murdered the yeast in hot water. Thank you for offering to help! I will be in touch via email :)

    Dec 16, 2008 | 7:45 pm

     
  133. marc medina says:

    des rodriguez passing on recipes?? HINDI yan namimigay!! SWAPAAAAAAAANG!! hoy des nakikinig ka ba?? ako nagsabi niyan wala nang iba…pero LABS pa rin kita kahit di mo ako pinapadalhan ng tocino dito sa oxfrod…t-shirt lang (makakain ko ba yan???)

    pero kung gusto niyo, wait lang kayo diyan ha…akong bahala. give me time and i’ll squeeze those recipes out of her!!

    Dec 16, 2008 | 9:27 pm

     
  134. betty q. says:

    Ms. Soon-to-be No Longer Ensaymadaless Tessa in Altanta: A favour if I may ask…please identify your e-mail like putting ensaymada or something. Our computer or rather the server is sooooooefficient it is sometimes annoying…some of my e-mails have been ggoing to spam folder or junk folder and automatically deleted…MM told me one of his e-mails most likely went to the spam folder since I didn’t get some of his e-mails.

    Dec 17, 2008 | 12:41 am

     
  135. Jun says:

    Haay naku I’m thinking of quiting my full time job na lang and just try all the recipes posted here….I’m sure 24hrs/day will not be enough to do this.

    Dec 18, 2008 | 8:52 pm

     
  136. moni says:

    marc, i bought your ensaimada at Salcedo Market on Dec. 27. Then I walked over to Pamangan to buy the ensaimada of Des Rodriguez. I ate chunks of both and I must say I like your ensaimada more. Hinayupak talaga! As I was walking around the market, I saw your Mom but I wasn’t very sure. I wanted to say hello but I didn’t want her to think I am a fan stalking her. Hahaha. Then when I got home, I saw her on Travel Time on ANC. Siya nga iyon.

    Dec 30, 2008 | 6:42 am

     
  137. marc medina says:

    hi moni,

    hayaan mo sanay na nanay ko sa mga fans. may kwento nga kaibigan ko. nanood ba naman ng “exorcism of emily rose” tapos pag labas ng sinehan narinig niya sa likod may nag-uusap…”pare nakakatakot talaga yung boses ng demonyo no? ang baba ng boses… parang si susan calo medina ng travel time…”

    Jan 6, 2009 | 5:46 am

     
  138. Cai says:

    Lol @ Marc
    Ngayon ko lang nabasa to, I was probably busy partying during the time you guys were chatting (yep, chatting..parang YM na ‘tong blog ni MM hahaha)!

    By the way, where can I find Marc’s ensaymada ba? Naikot ko na ng 5 beses yung Salcedo Market di ko naman nakita. Di din alam nung tintanungan ko..feeling ko ayaw lang nila ituro dahil baka pakyawin ko! mwahaha!

    Re the Lace cookies, is it similar to Japan’s Yoku Moku? Para shang super thin na lengua tapos may palaman na dark or white chocolate. Although, may type ko yung galing sa Cozy Corner na inuuwi dati ng dad ko from Japan din. Ms. Betty Q. baka naman may recipe ka rin nun! =p

    By the way, may I follow up na rin yung promise mong chocolate cake recipe and raddish cake. Thank you!

    Oh hi pala MM and Happy New Year to everyone! =p

    Jan 8, 2009 | 2:37 pm

     
  139. marc medina says:

    hi cai,

    anong oras ka pumunta sa salcedo? baka naman 1pm na yun at wala nang tinda! 2 dozen lang kasi ata ang ginagawa every week eh. in any case, kung meron kang hinahanap kahit anuman, punta ka lang sa oranizers’ booth yung sa tent na may softdrinks.

    hanapin mo lang mga matataray at mga supladitang organizers na si tricia lichauco, des rodriguez torres at mia villanueva at sana naman nababasa nila itong mga comment ko.

    pero sa totoo lang mahusay silang mag-manage ng market, better than i did when i was manager.

    m.

    Jan 8, 2009 | 11:52 pm

     
  140. Cai says:

    I always come early, not later than 9:30 baka nga ubos na by that time. I’ll try next week after my fasting!
    Thanks Marc!

    Jan 9, 2009 | 4:00 pm

     
  141. chris says:

    hi marc! first off, thank you for sharing your recipe of the hinayupak na ensaymada. i made them for media noche. this is the third year of a new tradition na we will make our ensaymada for media, and eat it no matter how it looks or tastes like (huwag lang poisonous).
    what can i say about the ensaymada? grabeee! hinayupak talaga! sa trabaho!!! started doing it at three in the norning at natapos ako ng mag-a-alas dose na yata ng tanghali. ang ginamit ko po ay instant yeats at ginawa ko lang na 1 1/2 teaspoons as suggested by mr.mm… feeling ko ang askad pa rin ng lasa at amoy ng yeast, siguro mga 1 tsp. ok na yun, maganda naman ang tubo (rising) niya, kahit di parepareho ang itsura dahil di ako marunong magcoil ng maayos. medyo natusta ko lang ang ibabaw ng unang salang (6 pcs), but medyo okay na yung second salang. btw, anchor edam lang ang ginamit ko kasi yun lang ang meron dito sa bahay. yung apat na ensaymada, nilagyan ko ng haleyang ube na gawa ng byenan ko… hulaan niyo po kung ano ang unang naubos?
    sobrang laki ng ensaymada that i had to slice them into quarters. as for the taste? am not really sure if i was able to capture the taste… kasi unang una sa keso na lang, anchor lang and i used queensland sa lata dahil yun ang afford ko among the available canned butters. definitely ang masasabi ko, malayo siya sa mala-mamon sa lambot at tamis ng ensaymada na nakasanayan ko. although okay sa akin ang hinayupak na ensaymada, request lang ng mga junakis ko na dagdagan ko raw ang tamis. so far, proud naman po ako sa ginawa kong ensaymada. may mga pictures po ako ng preparations, process, and finished product… pag-aaralan ko po kung paano ma-post yun… salamat po uli…

    Jan 31, 2009 | 11:26 am

     
  142. marc medina says:

    hi chris,

    sumakit ba ang mga brazo mo sa kaka-lamas ng ensaimada? biruin mo hung tinuruan ako ng yaya ng aking tatay (na matagal na pong patay) ay sabi niya dapat daw kamay lahat ang gamit ko at di pwedend mag mixer. since 10 years old pa lang ako nun, isa’t kalahating tanga sumunod naman ako. bwisit.

    yes, you can reduce the yeast. depende kasi siguro sa gamit ko. naalala ko na yung brand na ginagamit ko. it’s FERMIPAN na brown ang vacuum packed na foil na bag. ewan ko where you buy it, but it should be available in the grocery. o kaya sa mga wholesalers ng baking supplies.

    actually, ang recipe talaga is for 2 HEAPING tablespoons of yeast. pero yung fleischmann’s yeast yon. yung nasa lata. sobrang tagal ka maghihintay mamumuti ang buhok mo. bawasan mo nalang siguro yung yeast na lang.

    weniwey, am glad you enjoyed the ensaimada. yes, using marca pato or marca pina makes a difference. gumawa ako dati niyan na gamit ko anchor queso de bola. mas mabilis siya mag melt at mas nakaka-umay ang lasa. halos naglalangis na yung queso. and yes, pwede mong dagdagan ang asukal, sa dough mismo, o sa ibabaw as topping over the spread butter. nasa yo na yun kung ano gusto mong lasa. sa pampanga kasi halos ulam ang ensaimada eh….

    Feb 5, 2009 | 1:28 am

     
  143. wahini says:

    found this link, thought i’d share it with the MM world.

    ensaimada with pork lard!!!

    http://www.flagrantedelicia.com/en/cakes-muffins-and-madeleines/majorcan-ensaimada/

    Feb 11, 2009 | 4:21 pm

     
  144. Ems says:

    Wow I didn’t know there were some ensaimada makers in Cebu. (I mean the special ones, not your cheap corner bakery ones that are drowning in margarine). Never heard of them when I was still there. But then again I’ve been away for so long now. Nice to know :-)

    Aug 11, 2009 | 6:54 pm

     
 

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