24 Dec2006

Christmas Ham

by Marketman

ham1

Ham seems to be the number one pick of readers when asked what dish will anchor their Christmas meal. And I totally understand why – hams are absolutely delicious and memorable, easy to prepare and store, and compared to many other choices, very reasonably ham2priced for the number of folks served. Last year I almost did a taste test of locally available hams, even sending someone to Quiapo to buy samples of Adelina’s, Excellente, Majestic and other brands from around the city. I was so crazed at that point that I never got to post the results…and I have since lost my harried notes. I do recall however that the Majestic and Excellente brands were pretty good. So was Adelina’s. Actually, you can’t go too wrong with any of the three mentioned. But for me, axe the heavily pineapple influenced glazes, as I am allergic to pineapples. And worse, axe the overly sugared versions…for me, hams should be saltier rather than sweeter and the sickly sweet versions are on my hit list. But I have to cross national borders on this dish, and say that for me, the absolute must have ham for the holidays is a U.S. country ham, either a Clifty Farms Country Ham from Paris, Tennessee or a Smithfield Ham from Virginia (the latter saltier, I think).

Many pinoys based in America complain that they can’t seem to replicate the taste of their Noche Buena hams from childhood or early adulthood memories and many write me that their hams are just to soft, too meaty, too bland. So here is Marketman and sister’s ham3tip for those of you who have missed the news – try a country ham. You will be incredibly surprised by the results and you will make this your new favorite Christmas anchor dish in North America. My sister was kind, strong and brave enough to pack about 5 hams in her suitcases when she visited a couple of weeks ago. She brought polish hams (also very good), smoked turkeys and several Clifty Farm Hams, still in their boxes… This is the ONLY way I can ensure that we have a country ham for Christmas, unless they are fed-exed or couriered and not intercepted by customs officials or some unsuspecting relative agrees to carry “some stuff” back for the holidays, not knowing when they said “yes,” that it would include whole hams…heehee.

Country hams are salt cured and stored at above freezing temperatures over the winter and traditionally (often with hickory wood) smoked in the early spring. They are intensely flavored, very salty and dense. When you have ordered your ham and it has arrived, unwrap ham4it and brush off any surface mold with a vegetable brush or other similar instrument. Then completely soak the ham in water in a cool spot (refrigeration NOT necessary) for 24-28 hours, changing the water at least once or twice to removes some of the saltiness. Then place the ham in a large pot and add water to cover, if possible. Simmer over low heat for say 3-4 hours until it has “re-hydrated” a bit. Do not boil, the water should be BARELY gurgling or simmering. Think of this as a nice Japanese hot spring bath, enough to make you feel warm and fuzzy all over, but not enough to cook your gonads, silly… heeheehee.

Turn off the heat and let the ham soak a little more if it isn’t softened up a bit. Then drain, remove some and only some, of the fat layer on top. Score the skin by making a large diamond pattern, then make a mixture of brown sugar, Dijon mustard and some vinegar and slather this on the ham and bake at 375 degrees until the glaze has dissolved/melted. This won’t take more than 20-25 minutes. Take it out of the oven and it is ready to serve. Slice thinly as it is INTENSE and for some, incredibly salty. I absolutely love it. And at USD50-60 for a 16-20 pound ham plus shipping, it is a very reasonable main dish that would easily feed 15 people. Actually, it costs far less than the whole Majestic ham I bought the other day which was just 8-9 pounds and a little more than the Clifty Farm Ham! If you are in the U.S., contact Clifty Farm, P.O. Box 1146, Paris Tennessee 38242, 1-800-486-4267, or www.cliftyfarm.com. Enjoy!

 

COMMENTS:

  1. purplegirl says:

    to me, nothing beats Adelina’s ham paired with Marca Pina queso de bola. i have great childhood memories of Christmas with those. but since i haven’t – or more aptly, can’t – find a close enough substitute, we here in the south have to content ourselves with Honeybaked Ham and its patented single, continuous spiral slices.

    Dec 24, 2006 | 10:32 am

     
  2. choy says:

    i grew up on excelente and preferred x’mas ham. adelinas and majestic are equally good. but my sainted father, in his last years kept asking me to get him “jamon en fonda”, which he says they used to gorge on before WWII. i’m sorry to say i was unable to fulfill one of his last wishes. now i’m curious to find out what the fuss was about. MM, woud you or anyone know if they’re still availabe locally and where?

    another item that he used to rave about was tres cepas brandy which he claimed was the libation of choice of many big-time pre-war politicians. well, they came out just before he died and he agreed they were nowhere near the quality of the popular french brandies available. in a pinch though, i would still imbibe 3 cepas.

    Dec 24, 2006 | 12:26 pm

     
  3. Marketman says:

    choy, sorry, I too have never heard of jamon en fonda. I hope some other readers can help…

    Dec 25, 2006 | 4:18 pm

     
  4. Chinachix says:

    MM, I love pineapple-glazed hams myself as I have a sweet tooth, and I miss Majestic ham, but I thought you might find this article interesting…

    http://www.nytimes.com/2006/12/20/dining/20hams.html?ref=style

    Dec 25, 2006 | 8:16 pm

     
  5. Marketman says:

    Chinachix, funny you should send that link, my sister has been going to that butcher for 20-25 years, I think…

    Dec 25, 2006 | 10:35 pm

     
  6. Veronica's Test Kitchen says:

    great looking ham!

    Dec 26, 2006 | 5:29 am

     
  7. julsitos says:

    you’re right, the sweeter the ham, the more coy is the flavor.

    most Bacolodnon’s prefer the local “James’ ham” being sold in front of the Bacolod Central Market beside Kit’s store. It’s just a small store but people do appreciate it for its salty “decomposing” flavor. the taste is indescribable. it’s perfect for ham sandwiches and perfect for frying with a bit of sugar.

    if you have a friend from bacolod, ask that person to bring you a sample of James’ ham. it’s a bit pricey but way worth the trouble. For 1/4kg, it’s P180.

    Dec 26, 2006 | 5:53 pm

     
  8. julsitos says:

    Dec 26, 2006 | 6:19 pm

     
  9. sister says:

    Hi,
    “Hamon en fonda” is simply a dry country ham just like Clifty’s, it comes in a muslin sack. Haven’t heard that phrase in years. Lola used to hang hers in a clean flour sack above the brick ovens, close to the bakery’s ceiling. The Virginia Smithfild hams come that way, too,and are dryer, denser, and saltier, closer to a Parma or Imberico ham. The Tennesee ham is halfway between a Smithfield and a Kurowycki ham (NYTimes article). Jerry, pictured, is third generation, and now owns the only grandfathered smokehouse in Manhattan. I have been a good customer for 30 years, lugging or sending his hams to Manila every year for Christmas.

    Dec 27, 2006 | 3:28 am

     
  10. tulip says:

    The way Marketman’s sister described jamon en fonda, it is the same as the hams we used to purchased near Kamuning. It’s really pricey but definitely worth it! I couldn’t find the contact number this season and way too busy to picked it up so I had to forego buying it. As for the address, I am not too familiar, as my mom or a driver picks it up. Would post it here, when I get to ask them. I remember posting a comment here and I said it’s almost as good as Jamon Iberico.

    Dec 28, 2006 | 3:52 am

     
  11. ihid says:

    No visit to Cagayan de Oro is complete without the HAM. http://cagayandeoro.gov.ph/index.php?page=tourism&cat=2
    http://www.slers.com/

    These are local home grown food business that the city is proud of. I like the bone-in at OROHAM.

    Dec 28, 2006 | 10:35 am

     
  12. msmean says:

    where can i order the excellente ham? I grew up having Excellente Ham in my table, specially Christmas time. im residing in Wa state.

    Apr 17, 2007 | 12:36 pm

     
  13. Marketman says:

    msmean, there is an excellente ham store in Quiapo, on or near Palanca Street. I don’t have a contact number but I would imagine a relative of yours might be able to locate it…or the yellow pages…

    Apr 17, 2007 | 12:51 pm

     
 

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