22 Mar2005

Dulong or Anchovy fry (Gobiopterus lacustis? or Family Engraulidae?) are part of a very large group of different species of gobies or anchovies. dulong1Tiny fish that can rest on your smallest fingertips, these little morsels of flavor and protein are either served totally raw, cooked in vinegar (kinilaw style), cooked in banana leaves, battered and fried into fish cakes, or simply dried (pictured here) then fried. There isn’t a whole lot written on this fish and even the proper scientific name was hard to nail conclusively. Some sources say it part of the Gobiidae family (very common, 1 out of every 10 fish is a goby) while other sources say Engraulidae family… so I can’t say for certain. If I had to make a bet, I would lean towards the Engraulidae, mini anchovy path as these appear to be the smaller version of anchovies that are used in the making of patis.

A freshwater dweller at this early stage of their lives, dulong must eventually work their way back to the sea and grow up to be the anchovies we know from Caesar (Cesar) salads and mashed up in Worcestershire sauce. dulong2Like Salmon that find freshwater by fighting their way upstream to have their young, the anchovies are supposed to be safer in freshwater until they are ready to enter the fish-eat-fish world in the open ocean. While they may be safer from fellow sea creatures, they are harvested by humans in staggering amounts. In the Philippines, government statistics suggest that we harvest somewhere between 200-300 metric tons of dulong per annum. That must mean billions and billions of fry!

A few weeks ago I saw some dried dulong (daing na dulong) and debated with the seller whether I should get the more familiar dried dilis or the tiny dulong. dulong3She suggested just lightly toasting or frying the dried dulong in a pan with a smidgen of oil. I bought a small package for P40 and promptly brought them home and forgot about them. A few weeks later, searching for salty breakfast food, I fried up the dulong for just a few minutes in a hot pan (note there is very little oil) and served it with hot rice and a chopped tomato relish with chilli vinegar. The fried egg hadn’t made it onto the plate yet. The dried dulong was really good, and not all that salty – it’s probably just literally dried and not heavily salted… Terrific crunch, slightly salty flavor, and that unique daing experience (bitter taste that comes with munching an entire being, brains and guts and all) that is truly an acquired taste. The little bag of dulong easily served four; look for it in the markets or provincial specialty stalls.

 

COMMENTS:

  1. Maricel says:

    Dried dulong is also a favorite in our home. The kids find it easier to eat the regular dilis. I serve it with what is known as “ginisang kamatis” here in Bulacan. Lots of peeled, blanched and chopped tomatoes are sauteed in garlic and onions. Cook while mashing with your cooking spoon until everything has softened. Season with salt to taste and then stir in well beaten eggs. Cook just until eggs set. Serve with the crisp dulong and garlic fried rice. Yummy!!!!

    Apr 16, 2005 | 6:35 am

     
  2. Marketman says:

    Maricel that sounds delicious. The ginisang kamatis is something I have to try.

    Apr 16, 2005 | 7:22 am

     
  3. sunbridge says:

    I’m hungry.

    BUT I also love dulong. Several small shops in Manila and Makati sell Dulong in Olive Oil. And I use it as a ‘sauce’ for pasta or use it in my sinangag with just the right amount of garlic.

    Shoot. Now, I’m hungrier.

    @Maricel: will try that great ‘ginisang kamatis’ concoction of yours

    Jul 29, 2005 | 10:05 pm

     
  4. Ricky says:

    There’s a palaman that’s called Joyce’s Dulong in Olive oil and garlic. Where can we buy that thing? It is in a small bottle and cost daw about 300 php.

    Apr 15, 2008 | 10:16 pm

     
  5. roselle says:

    …but the best way to eat dulong is steamed, wrapped in strips of banana leaves, i.e., if you can get them really fresh (not possible in Manila, I’m afraid). I’ve been successful finding them really fresh in many provincial markets in Luzon, though, both North and South, provided you go to the wet market early in the morning. I just put mix in some salt in the washed dulong, and make flowerettes by cutting up some freshly-picked kamias into small slices. Then make a cross out of two strips of banana and scoop about a full tablespoon on one strip, put around 4-5 pieces of the kamias flowerettes on top and fold the strips. I cook them in earthen pots, until the water’s almost dried up (leave some for a little soup, if you like) then eat them with steaming rice and hot tablea for breakfast. Supradelicious !!!!

    Dec 6, 2008 | 9:14 pm

     
 

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