22 May2012

Even I have used the term lechon de leche loosely to refer to very small roasted pigs. But I have increasingly noticed how this term is being (often intentionally) misused, even abused by retailers/restaurateurs and many consumers seem confused as well. Tomes purporting to be the final word on Philippine cuisine seem to have a strong opinion on what constitutes an ideal lechon de leche — and frankly, they are technically wrong. Others have lectured me (verbally and by mail) on the ideal weights as well, while some vendors use the term to refer to their products when they are not completely accurate or forthright. Today, even the source of small pigs is something to seriously consider and take pause on when you decide to indulge in this delicacy. Literally translated, lechon de leche is a suckling pig, or one that is literally living solely off the milk of its mother. That’s it. Folks from Spain to Manila will argue over what age is best, but there seems to be reasonable agreement, that the best lechon de leches are between 3-4 weeks old (five at most, when the mothers milk starts to dwindle in volume), not too young that they are just skin and bones, and not too old that they are already on solid feed. Most piggeries or backyard hog raisers seem to wean their piglets at around 3-4 weeks, and at roughly 4.5-6.0 kilos live weight here in the Philippines, roughly 3-3.5 kilos cleaned weight. It is possible to keep piglets suckling for several weeks more, but it’s rather rare I am told, particularly if you are raising pigs to be sold.

The lechon de leche in these photos was 24-25 days old, and weaned just that morning. We bought it at the Mantalongon Barili market, and spoke directly with the lady who raises the piglets. It was roughly 5 kilos live weight. It had never had any solid food and you can absolutely taste that in its creamy flesh. The Teen does not allow me to cook these when she is around, and I have to admit it seems a bit mean to eat them, but authentic lechon de leches are incredibly delicious, and bred specifically to be sold into the food chain for carnivores like myself. We roasted this piglet splayed open, with some herbs in the stomach cavity and basted with butter, over coals for about 60-70 minutes. It was roughly 2.5 kilos cooked weight, if not slightly less. And you can see the size of the lechon from these photos. It is noticeably smaller than this earlier posted baked lechon, that I thought was a “de leche”, but at 9-10 pounds cleaned weight, was probably 6-7 weeks of age, and apparently NOT a de leche, given its size. So unless you trust the actual source of the pig, suffice it to say that the chances of ANY cooked lechon de leche presented to you that is HEAVIER than about 2.5-3.0 kilos in cooked weight (unstuffed), is NOT an authentic lechon de leche. I am being a stickler for this fact as I dislike misrepresentation. And calling a lechon a “de leche” when it is in fact feeding on commercial feed pellets, rather than milk, is just downright WRONG and MISLEADING. Kinda like calling oranges “Sagada oranges” when they originated somewhere in China. More information of weaning age, piglet weights, etc. here, here, and here. Philippine piglets seem to be smaller than their western counterparts…

Because ordering a lechon de leche is special event material, it’s extremely hard to keep real fresh lechon de leche in stock. Precisely because if they get older than say 28 days, they will start to go on feed, and are not authentic de leches. Not to mention having to have the mother pig in-house with all the piglets… For friends and family, I cook AUTHENTIC and FRESH lechon de leches for special events, and make sure our own buyer or trusted supplier gets the piglets fresh from a weekly provincial livestock market. They are usually served the day we purchase them, or at most, a day or two later, feeding them just water and if necessary, milk. This is, practically speaking, the ONLY WAY to have AUTHENTIC and FRESH lechon de leches.

So where are many restaurants getting their lechon de leches or cochinillos? Many of them are frozen. And yes, I have heard and seen many small pigs imported frozen from Vietnam, one of the largest suppliers of “suckling but often not really suckling sized pigs” in the world… It is said that much of the cochinillo you might encounter in Spain itself is made from imported young, frozen piglets… Now is there a difference between fresh and frozen? I have indeed tried both, and several times at that. While I would be hard-pressed to tell them apart blindfolded with a taste test, I think the main difference is in the quality of the cooked skin, and the buttery, milky tenderness of the flesh. Frozen pigs don’t seem to burnish and crisp as nicely as freshly slaughtered babies. It’s simply a personal preference that I like them fresh, not frozen. Just as I like fresh fish more than frozen fish. But most consumers do not distinguish, usually assuming they are getting a fresh lechon de leche, precisely because of the outrageous prices charged for this delicacy… Here are examples of Vietnamese suppliers, here and here, note how the pigs are packed and frozen, and they cost next to nothing at the source, you could probably land them in Manila at say $5 or so per kilo, or PHP220 a kilo, when a freshly purchased and slaughtered equivalent locally would run you a whopping PHP500-600 a kilo, cleaned weight. And some of the advertised suckling pigs are as big as 23 kilos cleaned weight, roughly 35+ kilos live weight…that’s one massive suckler! :)

I write all of this so you may be better informed about AUTHENTIC lechon de leches. From my perspective, this is how I would rank various suckling pigs, and what I would be willing to PAY for them…

1. The Best — A locally sourced, backyard raised, freshly slaughtered true lechon de leche, roughly 3-4 weeks old. Likely price, say PHP1,000-1,200 per kilo cooked weight, bones included. A three kilo cooked weight lechon de leche at say PHP3,500 or so.

2. Second Best — A locally sourced, freshly slaughtered then immediately wrapped and frozen lechon de leche, roughly 3-4 weeks old. Kept frozen for just days or a couple of weeks at most, then carefully defrosted and roasted either over coals or in an oven. Likely price, say PHP900-1,100 per kilo cooked weight, bones included. A three kilo cooked weight lechon de leche at say PHP3,200 or so.

3. Third Best — An imported lechon de leche, meeting the true lechon de leche weight standards, packed in mass production and looking evil in their packaging and long term storage in deep freeze (often months long). Likely price say PHP600-700 per kilo cooked weight, bones included. A three kilo cooked weight lechon de leche at say PHP2,000 or so.

So remember, it isn’t a REAL lechon de leche if it’s greater than say 3-4 kilos in cooked weight, unstuffed. And you shouldn’t be paying a huge premium for it if it wasn’t freshly slaughtered and locally sourced. A lot of restaurants will be seriously cross with me for having spelled this out. But consumers should be armed with facts and and make their purchasing decisions accordingly.

Smaller pigs, though not real lechon de leches, are still very nice to eat, and are noticeably more tender and leaner than much older pigs, so they would be the next choice after true lechon de leches. However, I do occasionally find that I like the slightly bigger pigs done lechon style, as they take longer to cook and the stuffing and herbs and spices permeate their meat more. So it’s definitely a matter of personal preference really.

So back to this particular lechon de leche. It was SUBLIME. Perfectly cooked, in my opinion. With skin so crisp we did, literally, cut it with a plate as they would do in some of the restaurants in Spain. Just roll the little platito with gentle pressure across the skin and listen to it crackle and splinter. The skin was very thin, with a nearly no fat behind it, and just tasty, crisp and delicious. The meat was tender and tasted almost milky.

We do two variations on this lechon de leche for family and friends, one with truffle oil brushed onto the cooked pig, and a sprinkling of truffle salt as well. And a spicy version where we brush homemade siling labuyo (bird’s eye chili) oil onto the nearly cooked lechon de leche. :)

In Spain, this size of piglet cooked as a cochinillo is often done inside a wood fired brick oven. Hopefully, by the end of this year, I will finally build our own brick oven and try to make this the traditional spanish way as well.

 

COMMENTS:

  1. scott says:

    MM, you know the saying you “learn something knew everyday”, thanks for the lesson! and oh, how I wish I could have tasted.

    May 22, 2012 | 6:10 am

     
  2. josephine says:

    I have had a No 1 – the best. He was born in our backyard in suburban Manila and presented to me as ‘my pig ‘ I tied ribbons in his little pink ears and took him for walks. Little did I know that he was indeed my pig – for my 4th birthday party. I can’t tell you what he tasted like because I never ate him …I cried in my bed, .but I have eaten his brothers and sisters, in various places, and cooked his kin… But I didn’t know their names. RIP Arthur(June-july 1963).

    May 22, 2012 | 6:21 am

     
  3. scott says:

    MM, sorry just read your last sentence, and I am smiling…Do not tease me with a brick oven!

    May 22, 2012 | 6:24 am

     
  4. marilen says:

    Best primer on leche, leche, lechon de leche!! ( I can just hear the old folks of years past, when irritated, provoked – mutter the word, leche, leche – ha, ha!)

    May 22, 2012 | 6:57 am

     
  5. ami says:

    I hope that the brick oven that you plan to build will be in Manila. Even if we can’t have Zubuchon here, this lechon de leche would be a good substitute :)
    I wonder under which category does Alba’s cochinillo fall under.

    May 22, 2012 | 7:45 am

     
  6. Steve says:

    MM, kindly let us know if Zubuchon starts accepting special orders for the lechon de leche. Thanks!

    May 22, 2012 | 7:51 am

     
  7. Natie says:

    Excellent! lechon de leche 101! I yet have to try one. i hope I try The Best.

    May 22, 2012 | 8:25 am

     
  8. millet says:

    hahaha…leche, leche…you’ve been itching to say that, MM, no? This post has been very informative. We always had big lechons because my mom would never eat the poor babies. “so young and turned into lechon already!” i hear there’s a good brick oven maker here in davao. Have been meaning to check him out.

    May 22, 2012 | 8:27 am

     
  9. f says:

    Hi MM. Am also building a brick oven by year end. Mind if I exchange notes with you offline?

    May 22, 2012 | 8:28 am

     
  10. Gerry says:

    I remember seeing a beautiful brick oven in the WorldBex exhibit a couple of months back. It was clad in copper which caught my eye. Just can’t remember whether the price was 150 or 250k. It was made locally by a foreigner. The copper cladding was an option.

    We do sell cooked cochinillos here in Manila. It has a dressed weight of 5kg, with a cooked weight of around 3 to 3.5kg. We purchase them for P420 per kg, or P2,100 per pig. This is quite expensive since when we started doing this a around 8 years ago, the pigs could be bought for only P220 per kg. We were told that these pigs were of the native variety. The commercial hybrid piglets don’t cook well since the skin doesn’t get crispy.

    May 22, 2012 | 8:51 am

     
  11. Marketman says:

    Gerry, that’s a good direct price, more or less, a retailer or restaurant would have to double to triple that cost to make it worthwhile for them… f, absolutely. I have already located firebricks, real ones, and refractory cement… next it will be the design and construction. We could completely screw this up, but I figure a homemade one at PHP75-100K for a large oven vs. paying the oven builders say PHP500-700K for the same sized oven is a good risk to take. Brick oven being built in Cebu…

    May 22, 2012 | 10:11 am

     
  12. PITS, MANILA says:

    Ha! Lucky to be viewing the photos with a full tummy. Not always the case for me, MM. Thanks for the info!

    May 22, 2012 | 10:28 am

     
  13. Anne :-) says:

    MM, on a different note, have you watched the Skyfall trailer? It looks so goooood!!!! Daniel Craig is living up to the Bond suave looks and style! :-)

    May 22, 2012 | 12:13 pm

     
  14. lee says:

    another lechon learned

    May 22, 2012 | 12:28 pm

     
  15. leigh says:

    hmmm, now i begin to wonder about Cirkulo’s cohinillo …

    May 22, 2012 | 12:44 pm

     
  16. Connie C says:

    I can understand the Teen’s reaction to the lechon de leche.

    On my first ever attempt at cooking a cochinillo, ( in my sister’s large oven ),
    I kept thinking of the mama sow especially since I heard that mama sow goes crazy on the piglet separation. This is not exactly true I later found out. Some mother sows “crush” their young and cause them to die in the first day or two of life, apparently more frequently observed in those with a large litter…. perhaps a mother sow’s natural instinct to nurture only enough piglets that her milk and mothering could sustain.

    May 22, 2012 | 12:51 pm

     
  17. mojacko says:

    waah! It’s Babe! I’m with the Teen on this one!

    May 22, 2012 | 1:12 pm

     
  18. millet says:

    lee, only you would think of a line like that ;-)

    May 22, 2012 | 2:01 pm

     
  19. MP says:

    Oh Lee, you deserve a porky trophy! I actually thought your entry in the “Why do you deserve a free lechon” contest would be one of the winners!

    May 22, 2012 | 3:54 pm

     
  20. Footloose says:

    This Teen is the same Kid who ordered a rabbit roast in Italy and apparently, ate it without compunction.

    Are baby pigs really hard to the touch? Whence “matigas pa sa kulig”?

    May 22, 2012 | 6:15 pm

     
  21. satomi says:

    MM! You are quite popular on Pinterest!! Take a peek -_- http://pinterest.com/source/marketmanila.com/ Just letting you know that I posted this article on Pinterest :)

    May 22, 2012 | 9:47 pm

     
  22. sandee says:

    This reminds me of Casa Armas where servers make a show of the cutting with a platito =)

    May 22, 2012 | 10:43 pm

     
  23. Christopher Tan says:

    When God wants to punish us, he answers our prayers. Zubuchon de leche. I wonder what sin I committed to deserve this.

    May 22, 2012 | 11:01 pm

     
  24. Mari of NY says:

    What a nice way to end my lunch break with pictures of lechon….it made me crave for lechon right now!

    May 23, 2012 | 1:20 am

     
  25. Marketman says:

    satomi, thanks for that link! I had not seen pininterest before… and it’s really cool to see other people’s picks for photos for their “pin-up”… the photos actually look better on that board! Thanks, it made me feel really nice about the blog’s contents! :)

    May 23, 2012 | 7:47 am

     
  26. Kim says:

    There can be no doubt, MM, you ARE Pig Man :-)

    josephine, oh dear, what an awful thing to do to a kid. My sympathies.

    May 23, 2012 | 11:55 am

     
  27. Weyn says:

    I so agree with the commenter who said that you learn something new every day! I always thought lechon de leche meant lechon basted with milk.

    May 24, 2012 | 12:41 am

     
  28. Yvette says:

    I just started pinning 2 weeks ago and I find it quite addicting! Your blog is the star of Filipino food pins. :)

    May 28, 2012 | 3:08 pm

     
  29. Geraldine says:

    Can anyone recommend how to cook the best typical Filipino sarsa (sauce) for lechon please. Thanks in advance.

    Jul 5, 2013 | 4:50 pm

     
  30. Pak Ricky says:

    Where actually we can try the lechun in Metro Manila around Malate area? Some areas mentioned are not located in Malate.

    Jul 30, 2013 | 12:49 pm

     
 

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