02 Jun2010

IMG_5867.JPG

First, my apologies for the confusing Venice posts. I rarely post about things experienced a year before, and my past week has been a totally crazy one, with planets misaligned and a full moon bringing out the worst howls I can muster (our dog howls along in sympathy with me, really), so we are discombobulated to say the least. Even the order of posts is out of whack, as after posting what should have been the departure or “farewell to Venice” post about canals in the wee hours of the morning, I reviewed my posts and realized I hadn’t done a post on the market! How can I visit a major city and not hit a food market? So here are some trailing entries. A double diet coke on the rocks, several deep breaths, and all will return to equilibrium… :)

IMG_5597.JPG

The Mercato del pesce al minuto is the retail fish market near the Rialto bridge. Rather than my laboring to write some history about the market, you should read this EXCELLENT article by Coleman Andrews for Saveur about the fish market and 4 other segments on Venice. This article was one of the reasons I so wanted to return to Venice, and to catch the market when it opened in the early morning. When we arrived and strolled by the market late one afternoon, it was closed, so we got to explore the actual structure of the market, bereft of tables, goods and vendors. This particular building isn’t that old, say 100 or so years, but of course there is a several century old tradition of selling fish on the banks of the main waterway in Venice.

IMG_5598.JPG

The market building has stone columns, a wooden roof and bright red tarps on its perimeter. The stone floors are obviously washed down at the end of each market day and when we got this first glimpse, you might have mistaken the space for a town meeting place or other use… I vowed to return the next morning at the crack of dawn to catch the market as it opened…

IMG_5823.JPG

Up before 6am, I made my way through the narrow alleyways to emerge right near the back of the market at say 6:15 am. Let’s just say Venetians seem to value their sleeping hours, as this market didn’t get going till closer to 7am… Speedboats came up to the docks and started disgorging everything from clams for linquine a la vongole to squid, octopus, scampi, etc.

IMG_5829.JPG

Here a vendor follows a wheeled cart carrying a pretty large fresh tuna and some clams.

IMG_5831.JPG

There was a whole swordfish or marlin as well.

IMG_5835.JPG

Another vendor started cutting up whole salmon into steaks after scaling, cleaning and partially de-boning it.

IMG_5839.JPG

Iridescent trout next to small octopus and other shellfish.

IMG_5840.JPG

Razor clams, now THOSE are long slender fingers compared to our own local tudlo dato

IMG_5841.JPG

Pretty fierce looking crabs, the meat of which is sublime in a simple pasta dish with crabmeat.

IMG_5844.JPG

Boxed scampi on ice.

IMG_5861.JPG

Squid or calamari and more scampi.

IMG_5863.JPG

Octopi beside fresh mediterranean sardines (don’t they look like out own tamban?)…

IMG_5866.JPG

The sliced salmon, ready for the fish pan… This wasn’t a HUGE market, and Venice’s resident population isn’t very large, but the selection and quality of seafood on offer was impressive. Perhaps the tourists at the top hotels and restaurants account for much of the volume that comes through this market, but whatever the reason, it’s definitely worth a visit if you are in town.

 

COMMENTS:

  1. Betchay says:

    Wow!….the bounties of the Mediterranean Sea! I think this market was shown in the Venetian episode of Samantha Brown.MM, did you go to Burano Island?That’s where I tasted the best risotto and from that TV episode I learned that they used the slow cooked broth of some fish seen only in that area and to attain creaminess they kinda pull the risotto like the Singaporean pulled coffee/tea……..so that’s their secret! :)

    Jun 2, 2010 | 7:24 am

     
  2. marilen says:

    Gorgeous!!

    Jun 2, 2010 | 7:50 am

     
  3. millet says:

    love this! must be frustrating to be in front of such bounty with no kitchen within cooking reach!

    Jun 2, 2010 | 8:53 am

     
  4. Connie C says:

    Still the catch don’t look as fresh as those you featured in Coron and Cebu wet markets, squid and octupi changing colors, shrimps almost jumping off the stalls and red blood oozing out of fish steaks as they are being sliced. Is it just me or did you feel that way too MM?

    Jun 2, 2010 | 9:00 am

     
  5. Marketman says:

    Connie C, yes, some of this stuff had traveled a long way. Most of it properly packed on ice, but still older than seaside in Palawan. However, some of the goods on offer were things you don’t find in our neck of the woods. As for the produce, it looked MUCH better in Venice, post on that up next. :)

    Jun 2, 2010 | 9:05 am

     
  6. F says:

    Hey MM, what’s on the left side of the clams in the top picture?

    Jun 2, 2010 | 2:43 pm

     
  7. Marketman says:

    F, I think stone crab claws on ice.

    Jun 2, 2010 | 4:24 pm

     
  8. G F Mueden says:

    I watched one man fill mixed orders for restaurants. He entered them in an old fashioned sales book (paded with carbons) and addressed them with rubber stamps, one for each customer. The totals must have been substantial. They all went out iced in plastic foam boxes.

    All refuse is sorted on the dock, wood, paper, plastic, garbage, and loaded on a barge with its own crane using big containers with doors in the bottom for dumping.. It is a well planned operation.

    ===gm===

    Jun 2, 2010 | 7:40 pm

     
  9. sha says:

    best part of visiting this market was, I was able to shop and cook in Venice ;-)

    Jun 4, 2010 | 1:52 am

     
  10. Betchay says:

    I stand corrected on my comment above….senior moments….sorry….it was not on a Samantha Brown episode but on Anthony Bourdain’s Venice episode.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AyQvTefwP48

    Jul 5, 2010 | 2:50 pm

     
 

Market Manila Home · Topics · Archives · About · Contact · Links · RSS Feed

site design by pixelpush

Market Manila © 2004 - 2014