Bad Saint has received a lot of phenomenal press coverage in the past 3 years since it opened. Reviews often begin with the no reservation policy and the often several hour long wait on the sidewalk in front of the restaurant for a seat. But we weren’t going blind. Isabel, our daughter, had already been 3 or so times, once to take photos for a published review of the restaurant and where she had a chance to taste just about everything on the menu. And she said, “Dad, it’s worth the wait”… so line up on our last afternoon in Washington, D.C., we did. Bad Saint refers to St. Malo, and area of Louisiana where Filipinos who jumped boat (the earliest TNT adventurers) from their galleons in the 17-1800’s took refuge and presumably started to cook Filipino food. The first immigrants… I think it is a BRILLIANT name for a Filipino restaurant in the U.S.

You can tell who the regulars are, they come armed with portable seats, novels, tablets. We had shopping bags instead, to sit on the pavement while we wondered what was on the menu for dinner… The wait wasn’t so bad. But a quick tip for MM readers… just send one person to line up and have your friends come 10 minutes before opening… that’s what lots of other folks did. If you aren’t ion the first 8-10 people in line, you may have to wait even longer for a seat after opening. With just two dozen seats or so, and maybe just 2-3 tables for 4, Bad Saint can’t accommodate too many people at one seating. Maximum group size is 4 people.

A few groups were ahead of us, so we ended in four seats facing out the front windows of the restaurant. The place is tiny, but don’t dwell on the interiors, just focus on the food. The menu listed only 9 dishes that evening + one special. Out of ten dishes, we ordered 7 and the Chef Tom Cunanan sent out another 2, so needless to say, we had 90% of the dishes in that one visit. A bit of backstory, I think one of the owners Genevieve Villamora and Chef Tom were aware, had visited, followed? marketmanila.com and had spotted us in line so we have to be grateful for the extra nice welcome which was like meeting up with old friends, though we had only met them face to face this one time. Genevieve was a gracious host, and well, Tom made sure the dishes sent out of the kitchen aimed to please…

To start off this post-graduation family celebration, Isabel ordered the “Tang” cocktail, a cheeky, nostalgic 60’s to 80’s taste profile that was amusing in name, but surprisingly adult and tasty to the palate… Made with a tangerine juice reduction, fino sherry, tangerine, lime, lemongrass and rambutan bitters. Somehow, this first sip was to herald good things to come…

…Mrs. MM opted for a small bottle of French cider, that was a perfect pairing for much of the food we ate that evening. Light, crisp and clean, the Etienne Dupont Cidre Bouché is something I am going to keep my eye out for to bring back home…

…Chief of Stuff and I had two bottles of San Miguel Pale Pilsen for a direct taste of home (I think these were brewed and imported from Hong Kong, however) and a cheery toast for all to celebrate graduation, moving into a new apartment rental, no more tuition checks for mom and dad, an epic trip to the Grand Canyon and Sedona area, touring a first-time visitor to the U.S., etc. was in order. Now to the food…

Labanos at pinaitum. We didn’t order this dish, but I think the Chef thought we should try it. Thank God for that. French radishes sitting on a bed of coconut meat, burnt coconut meat and coconut cream with honey. I think it was all emulsified and chilled to set. Several garnishes such as micro greens, toasted coconut, etc. on top. The dip almost had a consistency of hummus. It was amazing. Surprisingly delicious, but really delicious, and not really reminiscent of anything Filipino, but somehow it still had Pinoy soul. For a westerner, they would just think it was an amazing dish, regardless of provenance or nationality. Note to self, it was disarmingly rich and only became obvious because of how much we would eat in total that evening.

Next to arrive was ginisang ampalaya, which was beautifully done, the twist being the addition of salty black beans (or soy beans?) that ramped up flavor and minimized bitterness, though I seek the bitter. Even Isabel, who is an avowed anti-ampalaya stalwart, seemed to enjoy it. I loved it. This and a bowl of rice, nice vegetarian meal on its own. Note the ebullient use of garnishes, not just to prettify it, it was to add flavor, texture, contrast and it really did work well. Philippine cuisine doesn’t use much in the way of herbs, so playing with other strong flavors is a good way to tickle one’s palate.

The third dish to arrive were these nearly coal black adobong sugpo. Made with squid ink (wrong guess, my bad) pureed black garlic and bay leaves (some ingredients left out), it was swoon-worthy. Again, this single dish on its own with rice would have made a meal. But I like how Chef Tom doesn’t plate up to western expectations, but rather suggests family style servings with multiple dishes to enjoy a myriad of flavors and textures. This was a dense coating of squid ink, not the watery adobos you might be more familiar with from back home. The crisped rice lightened up the look of the dish, but as Isabel put it, they look a bit like fried maggots and to some, might not be so appealing. :)

I had to include another photo of the prawn dish to show how sticky and viscous the sauce was. Note the amount of rice I was consuming with each little bit of shrimp. They deliver unlimited amounts of rice to you, which was appreciated.

Next, dinuguan na bagnet or deep-fried pork belly on a blood stew. Delicious. Only the faintest of metallic taste to the blood; I am not normally a huge fan of dinuguan, but I liked this dish a lot. More on this in the Part II of this post… coming up soon.

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This is my recipe for homemade pancetta. It is extremely easy to do, but the ingredients, how you prep them, how long you cure them and where you cure them matters. Repeat, it matters. So please don’t make the recipe and substitute several ingredients (as many are tempted to or do) and then blame me for the odd results. It’s sort of like my Sister’s vaunted fruitcake recipe which folks always ask for, then replace specified dried fruit with things like dried pineapple and papaya then they have the nerve to bitch that it doesn’t taste the same as the original, duhhh. So you are forewarned. Once you have made a recipe or two and are confident about the results, feel free to alter ingredients to your own preferences, I do that from time to time for slight variations on the theme…

First start with 7.5-8.0 kilos of skin-on boneless belly (I buy in large slabs, you can do that from any decent grocery butcher). If you are anal, trim the slabs so that they are a uniform size and relatively uniform thickness. You will then have to remove the skin, so if you have a particularly good relationship with your butcher, ask him to remove the skin for you if possible. That will save you significant stress and grief as skinning the pork is not one of my favorite chores. I am assuming you will then have a cleaned slab or two of pork with a total cleaned weight of 7 kilos, give or take a few grams. Cut these into say 3-4 pieces of roughly 1.5-1.7 kilos each.

Next prepare your rub. Into a bowl, add 400-450 grams of kosher salt (available in good groceries, you can use other sea salt (NO IODINE PLEASE) but I am not responsible for translating weights due to different salts and moisture levels, it may rise or fall by as much as 25% depending on the type of salt you use… I know that sounds illogical, but that just seems to be the case for me); for the easy answer, buy kosher salt for your first attempt. Measure using a scale.

To the salt, add the following:

350 grams white granulated sugar
100 grams of dark muscovado sugar
130 grams of pink salt or curing salt
80 grams of peeled and smashed or roughly chopped garlic
several sprigs of fresh rosemary roughly chopped up

and mix this up well. Then into a frying pan, toast the following spices over medium high heat for a minute or two until fragrant but NOT burned.

20 grams of white peppercorns
20 grams of black peppercorns (or if you don’t have white peppercorns you can use all black peppercorns)
25 grams of dried juniper berries
40 grams of coriander seeds

Crush all of the spices above in a large mortar and pestle until roughly smashed up. Add to the salt/sugar mixture. Then add the following:

30 grams of dried bay leaves, crushed and broken up.
25 grams of dried thyme (or some fresh thyme chopped up, if you have it).

Dry your pieces of pork belly with paper towels. Then take your dry rub and coat all of the pieces well. Rubbing mixture onto all surfaces of the meat, including the sides, etc. I then place these in food pans and cover with plastic wrap and let them sit out on the kitchen counter for say 45 minutes or so to get the rub starting to dissolve. Then I place all the food pans in a fridge to marinate or cure for between 4.5-6.0 days. If the pieces of pork are quite thin, you will find that 4.5 days is enough; but if you have extra thick slabs of pork, you may need 6.0 days or so. The texture of the pork is what will give you the right cues. It should not be soft and squishy like the day you bought it; it should be firmer and harder, though not hard. Does that confuse you? :)

Flip the slabs of pork DAILY until you ascertain that they have cured long enough. If you let them go too long, they become very, very salty. If you don’t let them cure enough, they may lack salt and worse, may start to rot during the drying process. You may notice that you lose some liquid in this stage and that is good. Some slabs of pork lose more liquid that others.

Once you are happy with the degree of curing, then rinse the pieces of pork quickly and dry well with paper towels. At this stage, I just lay them on cookie racks on top of a cookie sheet and let them dry out uncovered in a clean fridge (I use one dedicated pre-cleaned fridge to cure 15 kilos of pancetta at a time) for say 6-8 days until quite firm. They are now ready for use. They will last several days in the fridge, wrapped up, or several months in the freezer, properly wrapped up. If you live in places where you might have a garage with a temperature of 50F or so at the moment, and no critters or bugs, then traditional recipes suggest you can just hang your slabs of pork to dry for 5-7 days until done. While I wish I could tell you I have tried this, I have not. Maybe if I had a cellar or mud room in New England just about now, I would. Most folks roll up pancetta before drying, but I find it a bother, it increases the risk of bacteria thriving, and in the end, it is just easier to cut flattish pancetta… so that’s up to you. I can only advise that if you roll it up, use some cracked black peppercorns inside the roll and do it so tightly that there is a minimum of air in there. It helps keep the cooties at bay. I kid you not. :)

My favorite use for the homemade pancetta? Bucatini or spaghetti a la Matriciana. Or you can use it in a clams and pancetta recipe. Cut it thinly and fry like bacon for sandwiches or to top salads. Use it as a base flavoring agent for minestrone. Top your pizzas with it. Saute cabbage and pancetta for a quick vegetable dish… Once you master this pancetta recipe, you won’t be tempted to buy pancetta from fancy purveyors for upwards of PHP1,200-1,500 a kilo. And it’s so much more satisfying to think you made it yourself. Enjoy!

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Andrew Carmellini’s recipe for an ‘Nduja carbonara or “Calabrian Carbonara” in a recent Food & Wine Magazine was the tipping point to hunt down the ingredient from Italy and see what it was like. I wonder if Mr. Carmellini’s ‘Nduja was locally made in the U.S. or smuggled in from Calabria, as pork product importation into the U.S. is still problematic… I ask, because I made the recipe and it nearly blew the heads off a few of the guests, figuratively, of course! :)

It’s simple enough. Saute some ‘Nduja with olive oil (to sub for pancetta or guanciale) then add to fresh organic egg yolks and egg, pecorino romano and it’s done. I followed proportions but it was way too spicy, almost painfully so. If I had cut back the ‘Nduja by say 40%, it would have been much, much better. Think of it as a condiment rather than a major part of the dish. I like the fiery porky quality it brings (just look at the gloss on those noodles along with the egg yolks) but too much can kill a good thing. Will give this one more go, but I have to say, I love a classic guanciale carbonara, so this isn’t replacing that anytime soon.

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For at least 3-4 years now, I have been reading about this ‘nduja in food journals, magazines, books, etc. It has recently reached trendy proportions, and when an aunt asked what she could bring back for us from Rome recently, I asked for some ‘nduja. A cured spreadable spicy salumi made from pork and fiery Calabrian peppers, it is wickedly spicy and makes use of all kinds of porky goodness like the head of the pig, tripe, and other cuts of pork. It has the consistency of a pate mixed with spread. It is salted and cured, and I presume, technically uncooked, like a prosciutto is uncooked.

The first taste came on a cracker (we had no bread in the house due to dietary issues) and it was beautifully aggressive. The texture, fat and porkiness was clearly overshadowed by the spice, that welled up and reared its fire slowly but surely. It was delicious on its own, but even for a relative chili lover like myself, I found it a tad too fiery. Our aunt, who brought it back, viewed it with a bit of disdain, saying her Italian son-in-law threw it out whenever someone brought him some from Calabria. She brought us another milder spreadable salami instead, just in case we thought to throw the ‘nduja out ourselves. It’s quite amusing how Westerners can talk up a specific ingredient, that many locals might turn their noses up at. But I think in moderation and amongst other salumi, it definitely has a place on the table… We have three chunks of the stuff in our fridge/freezer, so I will have to do further experiments using the ingredient to enhance rather than dominate the flavor of a dish.

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We discovered a few cans of De Cecco tomatoes that had just passed their expiry date. And to my annoyance a small whole leg of prosciutto was likewise discovered hidden in the walk-in freezer with the same problem. Honestly, prosciutto doesn’t go bad in a freezer, but we MUST to remove these items from inventory and happily they were now “mine” to play with… :) So off to the kitchens I go, intent on cooking a pasta lunch for the office crew with the tomatoes and prosciutto. First, the prosciutto was sliced incredibly thin with an electric slicer. It was still brilliant. Delicious, in fact. So we had some just like that, au naturel, with toasted Italian bread on the side. But we had quite a bit more ham to work with, so I decided to try a creamy tomato pasta topped with lots of sliced prosciutto.

Tomatoes and prosciutto are amongst my most favorite ingredients, ever. The prosciutto will probably cause colon cancer if I eat it daily (or anything with nitrates like ham, sausages, etc.) but at least the tomatoes will help stave off prostate cancer if the medical journals are to be believed… Into a pan, I added some olive oil, garlic and onions then some chopped canned tomatoes and let that cook down a bit. Season with salt and pepper. When you are almost ready to assemble the pasta, add a touch of cream and lots of grated parmesan and taste for seasoning. Add the noodles that are cooked to al dente, plate up and sprinkle with more cheese then top with more prosciutto than you think is necessary. Yum. The ingredients may have been just “expired”, but the pasta was pretty inspired. Delicious, in fact. Now to figure out how to use the rest of the leg of ham. I figure I have another month or two to work my way through it. :)

P.S. I would never suggest this for a restaurant, but in our home pantry, I sometimes have a canned or bottled item or two that has passed its expiry date (unopened) and I use it up to 2 or 3 months after the expiry date and it has always been fine…

P.P.S. In terms of “fishpan-slam-worthy” discussions, if I won the U.S. Lotto on a good month, say $200 million or so, I would immediately order this Berkel prosciutto slicer in red for my mythical future home kitchen with all the nearly-single-use doodads along with workhorse staples… It costs more than a second-hand car, so it’s ridiculous, but one can always daydream for free, right? :)

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A very tall white brunette, who was born in Manila to a British father, who later voluntarily opted to take on Filipino citizenship because he loved the country that much, and an American mother. She attended Assumption college in the early years and spoke Filipino probably better than I did by high school, and we were classmates and good friends at the International School. She is in town to visit her mom, and we had both of them over to dinner last night. As we do for all balikbayan friends, we ask them for whatever food cravings they might need to fix, and this was the resulting meal, based on her requests…

They had already had several heavy meals rich with food and desserts and requested a “green start” — so first up, a platter of seaweed. We used to head out to their beach house in Batangas in high school and this was a trip down memory lane to a time when seaweed was abundantly available and utterly simple and delicious. We have a vinegar, lime, fish sauce dip along with the seaweed but you didn’t really need it to enjoy the pops of brine liquid in the tiny grape like sacs.

We added two other salads — first a pako or fern salad with cherry and pear tomatoes and a soy vinegar dressing, and a sigadilyas and grilled chicken salad with a coconut milk, lime and fish sauce dressing. It looks like a lot. We had to refill the platters and there were only four of us. :)

A seafood heavy dinner request almost inevitably means steamed and chilled alimasag or cross crabs in our household. These ones were particularly meaty, soft and sweet. I could have eaten 3 of these with the accompanying red vinegar and garlic dip. But I was good and had just one.

Large prawns with garlic butter is another seafood staple around these parts, and these large prawns were perfectly cooked, redolent with butter and softened fragrant garlic.

Finally, our friend requested lechon, and on short notice and for four people, we opted to re-heat a kilo pack we had in the freezer. It still provided that porky hit and surprisingly, if you watch the skin closely while it roasts in a hot oven, you can get it back to pretty darned crispy condition! You know you have hit the spot bang center, when most of the food is wiped clean off the platters, the conversation goes on and on, and you manage to have serious portions of three different desserts including sans rival, a chocolate meringue cake and a dayap pie on top of it all! We are always so happy to see old (meaning from way back when, not aged, hahaha) friends, have them over to dinner, and hopefully, satisfy most of their food cravings!

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I have written about vegetable soup before, but without firm recipes, as mine changes with whatever is in the fridge or I find in the market. But here are some of my tips and tricks for a really hearty and tasty vegetable soup. First, start with a wide variety of ingredients, the more the merrier, almost. Don’t throw everything in your fridge into the mix, there has to be a bit of method to the madness. I usually have onions, carrots and celery. I add some cubed potatoes and sweet potatoes when I have them. Green beans or overgrown haricots vert are another staple, as is cauliflower, occasionally broccoli, mushrooms, cabbage, kale, etc. Kalabasa or kabocha squash, zucchini (green or yellow), tomatoes, red bell peppers, etc. all work as well.

But my best vegetable soups aren’t vegetarian. They are flavored with pancetta or ham or both. So below are my personal tips for success with your next soup…

Start with your fat (olive oil for me) and the pancetta, carrots, onions and celery. Let this saute for a good 10 minutes until they are well cooked, and a bit of brown stuff shows up at the bottom of the pot. I use a heavy enameled cast iron pot to make my soup in.

I find many cooks aren’t patient with this step, the sweating of the veggies, and rush through it. For me, it is the first essential step to eventual depth in flavor. Don’t rush it. Add some of the other harder veggies like sweet potatoes and green beans and saute for several minutes more. Slowly add all the other veggies besides the greens and saute further. I used some leftover white wine in the fridge to de-glaze the pan and a small tin of canned Italian cherry tomatoes as well.

At the end of the lengthy saute, perhaps as long as 20-25 minutes in total depending on how large of pot of soup you are making, the veggies should look good enough to eat as is. Vibrant, fragrant and softened. If you’ve ordered veggie soup at restaurants and find that its has hard-ish veggies in a watery flavorless broth, they skipped this lengthy saute phase. It happens even at our restaurant, and it freaks me out no end.

Next I add a freshly made broth with ham bones, onions, celery and carrots that is another key step for building flavor. I always buy the ham bones from grocery ham vendors and stock them in our freezer so I can make a ham broth whenever we need it. The bones are the cheapest natural way to build depth of flavor, and it beats canned chicken or other broths by a mile. If you don’t want a pork-based broth, then a good chicken stock is a great alternative.

My final trick is to put one or two rinds from used up parmesan cheese. You can store these in your freezer as well until you make a pot of soup. It’s like the best and most natural source of umami.

I add the chopped herbs about 10 minutes before finishing off the soup, with the cabbage and kale put just minutes before turning off the flames. This is delicious served up shortly after cooking. But honestly, I think it tastes better much later in the day or the next day even. if you plan to serve it later, it’s a good idea to hold the kale or other leafy greens until you are about to serve them, so there’s a bit of freshness to the texture and taste of the soup.

I find great comfort in cooking up a huge pot of vegetable soup. First, all that chopping is therapeutic. Second, extended saute is mindless and soothing, but critical to the outcome. The homemade broth is amazing to behold — for so little work, it creates such a flavorful base. And the end result, a hearty flavorful soup is so well worth the effort. With the local rainy season just starting, I expect to make several batches of soup in the months ahead.

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The power of mass media, and television, in particular, always surprises me. A few weeks ago, I wrote a post on a little lechon experiment we did at the office, here. One of the blog’s regular readers, a highly respected news broadcaster, probably opened it (while hungry) and one thing led to another, and they had research assistants texting me if it was possible to film a “lechichor” being made from scratch.

A day or two later, I found myself back in Cebu, doing an impromptu demo (I wasn’t aware I had to do the actual demo). Regulars on the blog know I hate video but I did the best I could. After all, this is about the roast pig stuffed with chicken and spicy chorizo…

Even if the temperature is mild, I SWEAT when the cameras get turned on. And I ALWAYS forget when I have a remote mike on, hence actual recording of me in the bathroom (thank goodness only #1) or talking about this inane thing or other back inside the air-conditioned office until the next part of the shoot. :)

I am always embarrassed to say my Filipino language skills are appalling, but I managed two fairly decent sentences before totally being voiced over by Jessica Soho. I fumbled at the ingredients description when I got to “native” red bell pepper (matamis na piper? bill piper? pulang pepper na hindi maanghang?) — egads, there is no translation it seems! :(

At any rate, it aired on the Jessica Soho show last Sunday and within hours we got requests from folks if they could order the lechichors. We don’t have it on the menu, but due to insistent emails, we are now making them available on special order basis, only for whole orders. And it’s only really now that I realize the dish is poorly named… if it is to be consistently Filipino, it should be lemanchor (lechon, manok, chorizo) or lechokizo or lechomancho… hahaha. :)

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Nine years ago I wrote about lechon kawali and bagnet in these two posts PART I and PART II, after a trip to Ilocos Norte and sampling numerous versions of bagnet. I also did a post on lechon kawali with a tomato and kamias relish in 2014, here. But we never tire of pork, so here’s another attempt at making lechon kawali…

First, take a nicely brined whole pork belly (we have these for other dishes we make) and cut it into smaller portions and stick it in a pressure cooker set to 10lbs of pressure for roughly 30 minutes. Let this cool and let it dry out in the refrigerator overnight. We were in a hurry, and skipped this step, do not make that same mistake. I had to catch a flight back to Manila, hence the shortcut.

Take the belly out of the fridge, sprinkle it with some good patis or fish sauce and some kikkoman soy sauce and gently place it in a huge vat or pan of hot, hot lard. Let this fry until the piece stops bubbling so much (less moisture) and the skin is nice and crisp.

Chop this up and enjoy with a sawsawan or dip of your choice. The meat was incredibly moist (almost too moist for me frankly), the meat so tender and the skin was just a bit less crispy than we would have wanted. The next time, I will definitely dry the piece out in the fridge for a day or two, and cut it thinner before frying it. I like a nice crisp exterior and tender juicy interior, not a totally fried to the core lechon kawali…

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Old-timers on this blog know I am a huge adobo fan, and eight years ago I published this recipe for my “best” pork adobo ever. It is still the family favorite, and I still make garapons or large glass jars filled with adobo to age before consuming. It is also almost exactly the same recipe we use at Zubuchon for the slow-cooked adobo we serve in our restaurants.

Last week, at a meeting with our commissary chef, I asked if there was anything else to discuss. The chef said, “was it possible to reconsider how we made our adobo, as during peak periods, he and the cooks had to use up to 35 palayoks to cook the adobo requested by branches…” Yes, we have grown over the years, and this adobo recipe is made in small palayoks, over coals, the same way I imagined our ancestors did it 500 years ago… So at some point, we have to make this “more practical” I suppose. But my answer to our chef was… cook a batch in a palayok over gas flames, and cook another batch in a palayok over charcoal and let me do a blind taste test. If I fail to identify the charcoal version, then perhaps we will consider changing the way we do things. He was thrilled, because honestly, I think he felt all the trouble of schlepping to the lechonan and tending 35 clay pots over hot coals wasn’t worth the trouble.

A week later, without any warning, these two dishes up top were presented just before lunch at the office with this sly smile, like he was counting on the 50/50 chance that I couldn’t pick the right version of adobo. After tasting each dish just 2-3 times (tiny amounts in each bite), I pointed to the dish on the right, and said “that’s cooked over charcoal and more than that, it is superior in texture AND flavor!”… the chef and cooks were amused. Nailed it, I did. And back to the coals for them, though I agree I have to figure out a better way to mass produce something that is increasingly becoming a best seller at our outlets. Customers may not understand the lengths we go to to bring them this little dish of adobo, but we are pretty darned dogged about doing it the old-fashioned way.

And so much about this is just the way we like to do things. We use big chunks of pork belly in good coconut vinegar with local uniodized salt, black peppercorns and bay leaves with our own high-quality lard, we use the remaining coals after pigs are roasted to be energy and resource efficient (though we now sometimes have to add coals to cook all the pots), we make it like our ancestors did, the smoke from the coals definitely infusing flavor while the quality of heat makes the meat tender in ways different from gas stoves, and we have a lot of human interaction with the dish, constantly checking how strong the gurgle of bubbles are, what the color looks like, when the level of liquid is perfect… And we do this whether or not our customers even give a damn. :)

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