28 Jun2014

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I interrupt South African posts with this one on several kinilaws (ceviches) I have been testing and refining and weighing and finalizing for Zubudagat’s menu. This is my 4-5th iteration (think 20+ versions total) and it’s close to the final line-up. We have been playing with vinegars (all-natural, not those white commercial acids), citrus for souring and fragrance (if only I had a constant supply of dayap or biasing, it is truly the best), coconut cream (freshly, squeezed, of course) and garnishings to get it to the point that we would be happy to serve it to guests.

Up top, a classic kinilaw Visayan-style with a touch of coconut cream. This one done with tuna, but alternatively, and preferably with fresh tangigue instead. The chopping/slicing and size of the other ingredients does seem to make a difference in the enjoyment of the dish.

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A shrimp kinilaw made with medium large suahe or white shrimp. We made this several times, blanching shrimp for seconds (technically no longer a kinilaw, but then again, other ingredients such as seaweed and banana heart are indeed blanched before being dressed) or using them absolutely raw. Honestly, I like the raw version better, but the color of the blanched shrimp may be a tad more appealing to folks who haven’t had raw shrimp before. Also, size matters — if you want the dish ready faster, you need to use slightly smaller shrimp. We clean each shrimp carefully before soaking them in vinegar and adding the other ingredients. If made from scratch as we would like to, this may take 15-20 minutes to get to the table, so I”m not sure if this will fly at the restaurant.

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Next up, a squid kinilaw, in this case blanched for seconds as raw squid can and does turn rather chewy when just marinated in vinegar. This was surprisingly good, and with less vinegar than the other dishes, has a sweetish edge from the coconut cream. Really delicious.

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I am really excited about this fusion Sashikini or Sashikilaw which is somewhere in between a sashimi of tuna but with a light vinegar, citrus and soy dressing. I also use homemade pickled ginger instead of raw ginger. This idea harks back to a version I saw Nigella Lawson make and have been using at home for a couple of years, but I am hoping some of our guests (Koreans, Japanese and others) will appreciate the simplicity and familiarity and enjoy it at a Zubu setting, before some roasted pig…

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Originally done with thin slices of salmon, the Sashikini as I am amusingly calling it for now, is good for both tuna and salmon. Salmon is a richer fish, and some folks might find it more “raw” in texture and flavor… but I like the tuna and salmon equally. From here we are also exploring seaweed kinilaws, perhaps vegetable ones, and of course a sinuglaw as well or a kinilaw with grilled pork thrown in. Expected opening date of our new branch in Mactan with a limited Zubudagat menu included is late July 2014.

 

COMMENTS:

  1. Lee says:

    I vividly remember the first Cebu Eyeball and the first appetizer served were thick and crunchy pieces of pork chicharon curled like evil smileys. What followed next was an amazing kinilaw served in an ice-bowl. It was a battle between good and evil in my palate.

    Zubuchon and Zubudagat will definitely pair and fare well. For every unctuous bite of lechon, sisig, or chicharon a palate and conscience clearing morsel of kinilaw. Namit!

    Jun 28, 2014 | 6:17 pm

     
  2. Isa says:

    The tuna fusion is reminiscent of Hawaiian poke’, raw marinated tuna, usually with sesame oil, see weed and a bit of spice. So good even at the corner sack and save!

    Jun 28, 2014 | 7:34 pm

     
  3. Marketman says:

    Isa, I did put some sesame oil in the tuna one… :) But I have never had a poke’…

    Jun 28, 2014 | 8:02 pm

     
  4. Footloose says:

    Tahitian poisson cru is an even closer relative.

    @Lee, One dish absolving another… not too different from a slab of prime rib washed down with a bottle of red…we eating enthusiasts need rationales to help us keep our conscience, if not arteries, clear.

    Jun 28, 2014 | 8:13 pm

     
  5. Junb says:

    one of my father favorite kinilaw is a fresh anchovies. I’ve been longing for it as I can’t find a fresh anchovies in singapore.

    Jun 28, 2014 | 11:08 pm

     
  6. FestiveRebel says:

    @footloose of course, where one considers a mound of bacon topped with a single string bean a salad and a decadent slice of cheese cake topped with whipped cream and a piece of blueberry a fruit plate!

    Jun 29, 2014 | 12:03 am

     
  7. David B says:

    looking forward to sampling these dishes in my next trip to cebu, hopefully soon

    Jun 29, 2014 | 1:24 pm

     
  8. joey @ 80 breakfasts says:

    Like Lee I have never forgotten the kinilaw you served in the Cebu eyeball! Really one of the best I’ve tried and now sorely miss. I love kinilaw and ceviche and any iteration of that same theme…these dishes are making want to book another ticket!! Will you be doing an oyster one? I like those too! :)

    Jun 29, 2014 | 6:52 pm

     
  9. millet says:

    yes, that kinilaw in an ice bowl was unforgettable. and yes, i hope there’s kinilaw na talaba with lots of onions and chili. my easiest tuna recipe calls for cubes of fresh tuna with a dressing of japanese mayo mixed with sriracha, and a little soy, topped with fine shreds of nori, some tobiko and sesame seeds. easiest poke’!

    Jun 30, 2014 | 7:43 am

     
  10. Marketman says:

    joey and millet, the question will be finding a REALLY GOOD source of fresh oysters, which I haven’t found yet. :(

    Jun 30, 2014 | 7:53 am

     
  11. Joey @ 80breakfasts says:

    Millet — I’m going to try your easy poke’! :)

    Jun 30, 2014 | 10:20 am

     
  12. millet says:

    joey, i just saw your latest post…the salmon with sriracha sauce…trying it tonight with big fat salmon heads!

    Jun 30, 2014 | 3:22 pm

     
  13. millet says:

    MM, roxas city seems to be the closest and steadiest source of fresh oysters no? am not sure if they’re available around northern cebu.

    Jun 30, 2014 | 3:24 pm

     
  14. Mila says:

    Your last two dishes remind me of tiradito, a peruvian ceviche with a japanese twist, usually citrus and no onions in the marinade.

    Jul 6, 2014 | 11:49 am

     
  15. Adobo Diaries says:

    The shrimp and the sashikilaw would be my top picks. But I do want to try them all.

    Jul 29, 2014 | 12:35 am

     

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