Snapshots of Amanpulo…

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It might seem as improbable as lightning striking the same family twice, but we find ourselves at a second Amanresort in less than three months. We are at Amanpulo on a private visit, by invitation of some wonderful hosts, so I will only provide snapshots of mostly sand, sea, sky and some food, and the leave the rest of our short visit to your imagination. The rainy season in the Philippines can be unpredictable, but while traditionally a less active period for resorts in the Northern Palawan area, I can tell you for sure that paradise at the height of the dry season is still very much paradise during the rainy season, and without the crowds.

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An hour-long flight in a 19-seater Dornier turboprop from Manila to Pamalican island was flawless and the greeting upon arrival at Amanpulo as warm as ever.

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Late afternoon tropical squalls formed on the horizon, and blew over the island on and off during the first day. I actually love to watch rainstorms advance and the beach is a superb vantage point, as long as you can get out of the way when it starts to get a bit stormy.

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But just as quickly as the squalls form and pass, they also disappear, and neighboring islands such as Manamoc are clearly visible across the calm blue sea. A slight shower wasn’t going to keep us off the beach…

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Some of the finest and widest sandy beaches I have ever experienced completely encircle the small island, and we were always in awe of the dozens of shades of blue that the sea puts forth based on the sunlight, clouds, and time of day.

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With only 38 hotel casitas (and several villas) on the island, you almost never run into any other guests except while dining in the restaurants. So it definitely feels like your private island, and your wonderful beach, if only for the length of your stay.

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Gentle waves crash over a very gradual slope of powdery sand that leads out to reefs surrounding the island, some 100-300 meters off shore.

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Sometimes you do have to pinch yourself to make sure it is all quite real.

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From the beach club, a classic photo that guests have surely snapped with their cameras for the last 16+ years since the resort opened for business. We were guests at Amanpulo just weeks after it had opened, and returned several times in the mid to late 1990’s until we decided to build a beach house in Batangas that reduced our trips to beach resorts.

The sun had come out in full force at this point and it was just spectacular. I have a photo taken from the same vantage point some 15 years ago (not on a digital camera) and it looks identical to this one…

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Beach side casitas are set back several meters in lush greenery (particularly during the rainy season) and many have private hammocks and several areas to lounge or sunbathe on the deck.

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A short pathway leads to your own private patch of beach…

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…with chaises longues and a beach umbrella. Towels are constantly being refreshed and if desired, meals can be enjoyed right on the beach.

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As usual, as with Amans anywhere, details, details, details as with these gumamela blooms floating in a pot of water and a coconut ladle so you can wash off sand when you return from the beach to your casita.

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The resort has a fantastic pool as well, right near the main clubhouse. It is dramatically lit in the evening, and capiz lanterns with candles dot the public areas.

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Our meals and snacks were just wonderful. Here an open-face vegetarian sandwich that the Teen ordered for breakfast one day… a nice slice of bread baked on the premises, hummus, arugula, avocados, oven roasted tomatoes and shreds of basil.

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Tapas at lunch included a wonderful spicy and tasty dish of gambas, made with prawns rather than shrimps. A basket of freshly baked foccacia was the perfect tool to sop up the oil and garlic at the bottom of this dish!

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Calamares served with a nice mayonnaise and some lemon wedges hit the spot with Mrs. MM, who ended up ordering it twice in two days.

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The Teen wolfed down an order with three substantial chicken croquettes.

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The resort has added several new dining outlets since we were last there a decade ago. A simple beach hut serves wonderful pizzas and salads. And another more formal setting offers a surprisingly varied Vietnamese menu. But the development that really excited me was the fact that there are several rows of organically grown vegetables, herbs and spices on the island now. A strong push to compost and create kitchen gardens shielded from the winds has yielded terrific produce. These arugula salads served with our pizzas were SUPERB.

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Turns out the arugula is grown less than 20 meters from where we ate it, and it had been picked less than an hour before we crunched down on the leaves. A lot of arugula in Manila is almost too peppery and a bit grassy, but these arugula leaves were delicious. Served with roasted tomatoes, some parmesan and a balsamic vinaigrette, they were perfect with the pizzas. After we finished our salads, we noticed the cook head off to the arugula patch to pick a few more handfulls of the greens, washing them carefully and getting them ready for the next few diners. This is a photo of her in front of the wood fired pizza oven.

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The margherita pizza was topped with the fresh chiffonade of basil, also grown a few steps from the restaurant.

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A mushroom pizza was also very good.

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A variety of drinks and coolers were on offer, but these simple yet refreshing lemon squashes (lemon, soda water, simple syrup and lots of ice) were a favorite.

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For lunch today, I had a simple but WONDERFUL tuna fish, green olive and onion sandwich, served on one of the finest baguettes I have ever eaten at an island resort. I always assume keeping a nice crust on bread on a humid tropical island is impossible, but this baguette was delicious. We also had several wonderful Vietnamese and Filipino dishes at dinner, but candle lit dining and poor camera skills (or was I just hungry?) means no photos to share…

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This is our fourth or fifth visit to Amanpulo (with a long, long break since the last one), but I can tell you it is as wonderful as ever. The service was impeccable, and as if by Aman magic, at the end of lunch today, perhaps with some help from the Teen who simply wanted to embarrass me in public (though I wouldn’t put it past them to have checked the files), a delicious chocolate cake with a single candle was presented for dessert. Complete with guitarists and singers wishing me a happy birthday. Life doesn’t get much better than that! Many thanks to our hosts and to the staff of Amanpulo who have made yet another memorable Aman experience. I am taking the next couple of days “off” from the blog to recharge batteries. Will be back soon. :)

Spectacular photos of the island resort on their website, below:
Amanpulo
Pamalican Island
Cuyo Group of Islands
Palawan

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Marketman

Marketman is a well-traveled management consultant who loves buying, cooking and eating good food. Read more »

111 Responses

  4. I am green with envy. Still saving to get there. I love white sand beaches and this is a dream destination. Have a great year ahead MM. Happy birthday!

  5. The only way I can get myself into this kind of scene is by photoshopping. Good thing we now know you well enough and one of the projects you are juggling is a school feeding program otherwise this blog can give the impression that it’s all about the life-style of the rich and fatuous and may foment mob discontent. May you celebrate many more birthdays to come.

  6. Footloose, hahaha. Yes, recent posts have definitely been at one extreme of the spectrum. You may wish to revisit this old post, where a perfectly comfortable room at the Village Lodge in Coron, Palawan was just roughly PHP500 per person per night. So I have covered the other end of the spectrum as well. :) Thanks for the greetings from all. Okay, signing off again… :)

  7.  Maligayang Bati Sa Iyong Kaarawan! Ka-birthday mo sister ko! I know President Manuel Quezon was born on this day too.

  17. as you said, details. love the food presentation, those small squares of banana leaves under the food made a difference. a visit to market manila is always a learning experience. this was a sosi to the max birthday celebration :-) thanks for sharing.

  20. Happy Birthday MM! May this vacation recharge you and keep you at peace with all the wonders that is around us. Enjoy and many more to come!!!

  23. WOW! You finally made it to FORTY… hehehe Very SPECTACULAR birthday TREAT. I wish you MORE GREAT birthdays to come.

  28. happy birthday MM , just want to share this last night’s winner of Restaurant Wars on Food network is a father and son tandem from the Phils. The name of their restaurant is ‘Noy and they served kare-kare and lengua for the main course lumpia shanghai as appetizer and for dessert leche flan and turon. Judges loved it but some diners are scared of beef tripe and ox tails, the thing that lured them in is when the son passed lumpiang shanghai to waiting diners of the other restaurant . Yay to Pinoys!!!!

  31. Happy Birthday, MM! ‘Hope we can also visit Amanpulo so my husband can enjoy what really is paradise!

  32. Sorry MM, I thought your birthday was on the 25th,but I checked the files and found that it was today.

    A VERY HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO MY FAVOURITE BLOGGER! YOU’RE THE BEST!

    My dh says we’ll toast this special occasion with his excellent home brewed beer and hope you have many many more to come!

  35. Joining in the chorus of happy birthday from all the well-wishers. Ok, everybody, all together now – h-a-p-p-y- b-i-r-t-h-d-a-y-t-o a g-r-e-a-t-g-u-y!!

  39. Happy Birthday MM! May the joy you give to your readers and the kindness and concern that you have for the kids in your feeding program be returned to you a thousandfold. Thank you for the years of wonderful posts.

  41. Happy birthday MM! What an awesome way to spend your birthday! Siiiigh…I’m dreaming of some tropical paradise getaway stuck here in the city!

  43. i guess by now, all I can wish you is to keep enjoying your vacation! Belated Happy Birthday,MM!

  47. Happy Birthday, MM! Am looking forward to the day when the Teen decides to write her own blog. It would be great to read about her thoughts and feelings about all the wonderful experiences your family continue to have together. Take your much deserved break to recharge and we’ll all be waiting for your most interesting posts!

  51. happy birthday MM!! just curious how many Aman resorts have you been to and which was the best? :) friends who’ve been to Amanpulo said that the food prices were skyhigh! i think a cup of rice went for 150pesos (?)

  55. happy birthday!Mm! and once again,thank you for showing the beauty of the philippines, in this case, amanpulo..ganda talaga ng pilipinas.=D

  56. thanks for the nice photos and the wonderful review.. planning on getting married at Amanpulo next year..=) happy birthday MM!!!

  61. Happy birthday, MM. I checked Amanpulo before and just wishing I can go there one of these days. What a beautiful place.

  68. Hi MM! Maybe you can think about our offer of guesting you in our show! Hope you will reply. Thanks! Happy Birthday. :)

  73. I sent another message before this Mr. Marketman.

    The show goes every Tuesday, 10PM, titled Tara Let’s Eat at QTV11. We would like to guest you on our show together with another food blogger who is Ms. Jean Salonga Fernando of triportreats.com.

    The idea is you two cooking, to be critique by our host, Tonipet Gaba. It’s as if the table are turned this time, you’re the one to be blogged now, instead of you blogging about your favorite restos and dishes.

    Hope this interests you. We will wait for your reply.

    Thanks and have a nice day!

    Happy birthday, by the way. :)

  74. Maybe you can contact me at my mobile number (0926 1488072), so I can discuss the matter over the phone.

    Thanks and God bless!

  77. i wish i could spend my birthday like you did. alas it was not. will just wish us both a happy birthday. God bless!

  83. malipajung pagsa-ulog sa imong adlawng natawhan Marketman!
    yati rah! amanpulo pa jud! ga laway-laway ko sa kaikag! hehehe

    happy birthday! more blessings to you on your path!

  94. hey, mm: happy birthday! :) here’s to good health, good wealth & good life! :) cheers!

    * amanpulo is love *

  96. Whoa! So many comments, it must have been the cake… :) Thank you everyone for the bday greetings! If my recent poll on birthdays is correct, there will be an increasing number of readers with birthdays in the next two months, so Happy Birthday to all of you as well! :), Sorry, I tend to try and keep anonymous and avoid television shows with a predominantly local audience… Jenny, we have stayed in 6 or 7 Amanresorts and visited another 3-4 for lunch or dinner and I would say that each has their own unique character and charm. The Balinese Amans are special because of their coziness and warmth… and they started an EXPLOSION of copy cat resorts there, so much so there are dozens and dozens of wannabees. It’s hard to say if any one of the Amans is a favorite, they are all worth a visit. As for food prices at Amanpulo, nearly everything is flown in fresh or put on a monthly barge, so the cost of the food is already higher to begin with. It’s part of the price you pay for being nearly alone on a small island in the middle of the Northern Palawan seas… I don’t recall ordering just a cup of rice and seeing its price, some of our Asian meals came with rice. Hotels near major or minor cities have easier access to both food and staff. linda, how cool is that, you make your own beer at home?! alilay, I haven’t seen that program or episode…

  97. Maligayang bati sa iyong kaarawan.Nawa’y patnubayan ka ng Panginoon sa lahat ng landas na iyong tatahakin. :)

  98. wow amanpulo still looks fantastic… haah have been here for a vacation once and am dying to go and revisit… the beachfront casitas indeed make you feel like you’re alone in the island. what struck me back then apart from the postcard pic view was the attention to service… you have staff running after you for the smallest amenities and things . happy birthday MM! More blessings to you and your family

  99. Happy Birthday, MM!

    Is it true that if you were walking on the beach sans umbrella and it starts raining, an aman staff will come right away with an umbrella to shield you? =)

    what water activities/sports can you do there? are the corals still healthy and fish plentiful?

  102. With all your posts about Aman properties around the world I had been holding my breath waiting for Amanpulo. Finally here it is. Breathtaking. Nothing compares to celebrating there. Happy birthday.

  104. We’re heading to the Philippines in November 2011. Amanpulo is a dream destination. Any tips for our family of 4?

    Happy belated birthday! Did you accept the cooking challenge?

  105. Jen, no I didn’t for a couple of reasons… As for the Philippines, you could certainly do Amanpulo, or if you want the scenery and less luxurious digs, Coron/Northern Palawan is my favorite destination these days…

  106. happy birthday MM! i love AMANPULO me and my wife were there 3 years ago. what a paradise!

  107. maayong pagsaulog jud diay sa imong adlawng natawhan MM!!! buligan ka pa unta ug maayong panglawas ug daghan pang grasya sa kanunay!

  108. OMG! the beach took my breath away! i wanna cry coz i dunno if i’ll ever set foot in Amanpulo. Hopefully someday! **crosses fingers!

  110. happy b-day MM..im just new here..addition to your avid readers and fan…you r so lucky to be celebrating your b-day there…its been my dream to go there..wish you all the best..more posts to come…happy b-day..:)

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